La Guita, Manzanilla, Hijos de Rainera Pérez Marín Bodega, Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO, Spain, 15% abv, C$23

la guitaThis Sherry comes with a little string draped across the neck of the bottle – apparently signifying a guitar string and hence the name, La Guita.

It’s aged under a thick layer of flor (or yeast) near the coast at the Hijos de Rainera Pérez Marín bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda which is located in Jerez looking out toward the Atlantic Ocean.

A medium lemon tone with uneven legs, the aromas are heavenly – sea salt, green olives, yeasty flor, and a little lemon and lime zest with toffee and honey.

The palate is completely dry with high alcohol and medium acidity.  Flavours include brine, more olive, yeast, citrus and salt water taffy.

Sherry is augmented by food.  Solera aged in 16,000 casks located in two different buildings, this Spanish beauty is WSET Very Good and went great with manchego cheese and honey, salami and herbed olives.

Next time you’re thinking about truly trying something new, get some of this or a Fino version, buy some olives, almonds and manchego and go for it!

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Graham Beck, Cabernet Sauvignon, The Game Reserve, W.O. Western Cape, South Africa, 2011, 14.5% abv, C$19

graham beckThe Western Cape is a very large geographical unit that encompasses most of the eastern wine lands of South Africa – including the Breede River Valley, the Coastal Region, Klein Karoo and Olifants River.  It’s massive.  Enormous.  And there’s a lot of wine that comes from the region.

In the past, most of it wouldn’t have had much of an international following – much of what was exported from South Africa to the rest of the world was either fortified or on a critter label and it usually arrived in foreign ports in bulk, not bottled.  But much of that is changing as today’s South African wine scene is improving rapidly.

This version (which does, admittedly have a critter on its label!) is a deep ruby with medium plus intense aromas of field berry, light, sweet tobacco, clove and minty herb.

The palate is dry with average acidity and light tannins with a small bit of grip.  The flavours are medium plus intense and show plum, cassis, more field berries, cigar box and tobacco, leather and earthy herbs.

With its medium body but light mouth feel, this is a WSET Good wine with an accessible price point that’s drinking well, but not suitable for the cellar.

We enjoyed it with a lightly spicy and rustic chorizo and veggie stew accompanied by a fresh salad and egg noodles that enlivened the light tannins.

Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, OTHER, RED, South Africa | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Old Vines Riesling, Sperling Vineyards, Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, BC, 2012, C$32

In June 2014 we were in Normandy and spent a day with Emmanuel Camut, one of three Camut brothers and the sixth generation of their family making premium Adrien Camut Calvados on land they’ve owned since the 1800s. sperling 1

Emmanuel was intrigued by Canadian ice wine and before leaving, we promised to send him a bottle.  Selecting a bottle was more challenging than anticipated though – I wanted to find a small lot, family produced product.  Nothing by a large, commercial company would do. By August he was the recipient of a bottle of Sperling Riesling ice wine.

Ann Sperling’s family, the Casorsos planted the very first vineyard in Kelowna back in 1925.  I hadn’t been to their Kelowna tasting room though until just recently.

The reception and pouring by Ellen and Kim was fun, friendly and knowledgable.  It included a 6.4% abv. petillant spritzer (Sper…itz) made from Perle of Csaba and Bacchus grapes, a Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and a Marechal Foch from 55 year old vines.

While they aren’t certified biodynamic, they do follow many of the principles and have been producing about 3,000 cases up until now.  With friends at Clos de Soleil about to open up their own production space, Sperling hopes to double its output as sharing is no longer necessary.

There were two wines in particular that stood out for me – the intensely aromatic 2010 Gewürztraminer (all the 2013 was sold to the LCBO) which was all about lychee nuts and tropical fruit and the 2012 Old Vines Riesling.Sperling 2

Made from vines planted in 1978, the Old Vines Riesling has a pale lemon tone with medium aromas of pear, bergamot lime and petrol.  The palate is off dry with 17g of RS but balanced by a medium plus acidity so there is no cloying sugar.  More Asian pear, lime citrus, clover honey and diesel round out the taste profile and it ends with a medium finish.

WSET Very Good and ready to go with my next order of Thai food or salty appetizers.

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Samantha, Syrah, Cerqueira Vineyard, Okanagan Crush Pad Winery, Oliver, BC, 2013, 13.6% abv.

This wine was produced by the 2013 Vancouver International Wine Festival’s Sommelier of the Year winner, Samanatha Rahn as part of the Okanagan Crush Pad Winery’s wine campus program.  Held in conjunction with the BC Hospitality Foundation, sale proceeds fund a scholarship to support students who take high level wine education certifications.samantha rahn

What a delicious treat it is.  Cloudy and an opaque ruby red, this wine is unfined and unfiltered.  It has medium plus intense aromas of sour cherry, savoury game and salami with black pepper, pine needle and field berry.  The intense herbal note grew while we enjoyed the bottle.

The palate is dry with average acidity and velvety tannins with medium alcohol.  Flavours are concentrated and show pomegranate, field berry, more sour and Byng cherry, garrigue, black olive and pepper with a high toned minerality.  Savoury salami and saddle round it out with a medium plus finish.

It’s beautifully balanced and seriously layered – WSET Very Good.  According to Samantha, the brand may well be continued.  Keep your eyes peeled in BC wine stores.

Picture credit: Mike Woods Photography

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Qupé, Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara, California, 14.5% abv, 2005

qupe 1When I started planning the brief trip to Santa Barbara, I also began to plot my assault on a bottle of locally produced Qupé.  It’s challenging to find in my corner of the world and this winery owned by winemaker Bob Lindquist and investor Charles Banks, ranks high on the lists of those eager to search out Californian wines of purpose, place and legacy.

Bob is one of California’s original Rhône Rangers who in the 1980s promoted the planting and use of varietals from France’s Rhône Valley.

Since there is not much to do in tiny, downtown Buellton, we found ourselves at The Hitching Post II by 5pm.  After qupe 3starting off with an equally fabulous 2012 Au Bon Climat, Chardonnay (lemon curd with minerals, butterscotch and oak, all crisply balanced with admirable acidity), we moved on to this, one of Qupé’s renowned cool climate Syrahs.

Deep garnet with solid legs, the nose offers medium plus intense aromas of purple plum, black cherries, dried thyme, spicy black pepper and rich oak.  The palate is dry with better than average acidity and delicately complex and velvety tannins.  Flavours of more plum and boysenberry with garrigue and rosemary evolve into tobacco, salami and black olive tapenade.

qupe 2The finish is extended, the wine complex and balanced with high – but not hot or boozy – alcohol.  We opened this WSET Very Good plus wine at 9 years old (July 2014) and it was drinking perfectly but can easily be held until about 2016.

 

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Argyle, Blanc de Blancs, Knudsen Vineyard, Julia Lee’s Block, Dundee Hills AVA, Oregon, 2009, 12.5% abv.

Argyle 1Brut makes you better‘ is the claim on the Argyle Winery website. Agreed!  We were there in 2010 and purchased this with that goal in mind.

Very pale lemon with a persistent, chubby bubble, this sparkler has a very light nose of yeast, lemon zest and Granny Smith apple.

Dry but not austere, the wine has refreshing medium plus acidity and medium minus alcohol with mild flavours of Golden Delicious and green apples, Asian pear, more light citrus zest with lemon meringue and toast.  The finish has average length and some light citrus rind bitterness on the very end.

Delicate and light, it’s a simple but clean and tasty sparkling wine.

WSET Good – don’t lay down, enjoy now.

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Lopez de Haro, Tempranillo, Crianza, Rioja DOC, Spain, 2010, 13.5% abv.

lopez de haroMeh.  I expected more from this wine.

A 90% Tempranillo with 7% Garnacha and the remainder Graciano for perfume and colour, this is a Crianza version from a hillside at the village of San Vicente de La Sonsierra in Rioja, Spain.  It has been aged for 18 months in French and American oak to earn the ‘Crianza’ title.

This wine has a translucent ruby-garnet tone with perfectly even legs.  The nose started off surprisingly neutral but eventually opened to show some boysenberry, field berry and cinnamon stick.

The palate is dry with less than average acidity, alcohol and invisible tannin.  The flavours are equally average and include sweet berry and clove with wood.  The finish is non-existent.

With its muddied flavours, absent aromas and unbalanced alcohol – this is merely a WSET Acceptable wine.  Save your money – but if you have any at home, it’s suitable for spaghetti or as your second or third bottle at a party.

Photo credit: Mike Woods Photography

Posted in Graciano, Grenache / Garnacha, RED, Red, Spain, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Ruché, Caresana, Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Italia, 2013, 15% abv, C$30 (BCLB)

rucheThere isn’t very much of this Italian grape around – only about 40 ha of vines exist in Piedmont.  A DOCG since 2010, opinion is divided as to whether or not this is an indigenous Italian varietal or one that came from France in the 1700s and that adapted to the hills around Asti.

Either way, it makes tasty, tannic and nicely perfumed wines. This Ruché has a deep ruby shade and is developing with high toned aromas of cranberry, red plum, garrigue and light black licorice – fennel.

The palate is dry with medium plus acidity, high alcohol and medium plus tannins that show some grip.  Complimented by a better than average finish, flavours include fresh plum, strawberry, cranberry and dark Mission figs with black pepper alongside some sage, rosemary and thyme.

We found the alcohol to be a little hot, but time or double decanting fixed that problem and once the alcohol relaxed, the edges also disappeared and more fresh fruit and herb emerged. Over the course of the evening, a deep, dark cherry revealed itself.  On the second day, deeper garrigue and licorice were evident.

WSET Very Good – awesome wine.  Buy and drink or lay down for 1-3 years.  

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Albariño, Eidos de Padriñán, Rias Baixas DO, Spain, 2013, 12.5% abv, US$19.

albarinoThis wine is made in tiny Padriñán on the cool, wet north western Atlantic coast of Spain.  Hanging off the edge of Spain, Padriñán is south of Santiago de Compostela and not so far across the border with Portugal from Porto.

Made from 100% Albariño grapes off 50+ year old vines on a south facing slope overlooking Sanxenxo harbour, this wine is a real stunner.  Albariño is the Galician name for this grape that also goes by Alvarinho or Caino Branco in Portugal.

Pale lemon with light legs, the nose is full of intense ripe peach and apricot, Meyer lemon and almond with salt.  It’s very stony and the bright fruit plays mind tricks on you, making you think it will be sweet.

But, while the palate is fruity, the wine is dry with medium plus acidity and medium minus alcohol.  The flavours include more citrus pith and peach, apricot and sea salt with almond, yet it’s not bitter in the slightest.

WSET Very Good – a really lovely, deliciously fruity wine but with accompanying acidity and sharp minerality, excellent with fresh pan-seared halibut with lemon and wild rice.  Made to drink and enjoy now; do not lay down.

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Podere Brizio, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italia, 2006, 14.5% abv, C$120

podereThis 100% Sangiovese is made by Roberto Bellini and Patrizia Mazzi.  They had originally owned a lot of land in Montalcino (the larger Pieve di Santa Restituta estate) and then sold all of it except for 9 ha to Angelo Gaja in 2010.

The 9 ha they kept for their own production hosts the superior Podere Brizio site and produces this Riserva (as well as a Brunello and a Rosso).

A medium garnet tone with deep legs, this wine has a seriously intense bouquet of dried dark fruit, anise, cinnamon, herbs and raw vanilla bean.

Dry with medium plus acidity, ripe tannins with grip and medium plus alcohol, there’s a sherry-like quality to this wine.  The flavours are elegant, but at the same time intensely masculine – black cherries, overripe strawberry, dried blackberry fruit leather and plum, saddle, clove spice, licorice fern and careful oak.

The finish is lengthy on this WSET Very Good + wine.  Drink now or rest for a good 10 years more until 2025.

93 Points – Antonio Galloni – “brilliantly nuanced”
95 Points – Wine Enthusiast
90 Points – Wine Spectator
92 Points – Wine Advocate

Posted in Italy, RED, Sangiovese | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments