Pinot Noir, Clone Collection Dijon 777, CODE Wines, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia, Canada, 13% abv., 2022

I had wanted to visit CODE Wines for some time. They’re relatively new to the Okanagan, BC wine scene, but they landed in it with accolades and awards, and I’d heard nothing but wonderful reports of them and the quality of their wines.

We had planned a trip through wine country to introduce our replanted (from Toronto) friends to BC wines, so I was in charge of selecting some premium properties. CODE was at the very top of that list.

Shay grew up on a Saskatchewan farm, so the prospect of turning into a viticulturalist was not, perhaps, as daunting to him as it would be to others (although they may argue this now that they’re in the thick of it). He and Harlee made this switch in 2016 and then moved full time to the vineyard in 2021. Harlee has kept her day job, but Shay is immersed in the grapes in all ways imaginable.

In a short period of time, they’ve established themselves as premier viticulturalists and vignerons of primarily Rhône varietals. We joined them for a tasting on our day in Oliver and OK Falls.

If you’re into micro-petit wineries that are hands on and full steam on every task with only a couple (or even one) employees, CODE Wines is for you. Shay does everything – from viticulture and vineyard management, to harvest (with some close friends, neighbours and family members), to all the winemaking and bottling tasks. They produce about 1,000 cases a year – let that sink in.

To make this experience even better, CODE is their surname. Seriously. They’re marketing geniuses. They concentrate on producing different clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – the genetic codes of the vines being of utmost importance. Get it?

Our tasting consisted of four wines, the first being their 2025 Estate Single Clone Chardonnay at 12.9% abv., and only 130 cases made. Malo was blocked half way through and it was lightly fined and filtered. This is a beautiful, clean Chardonnay with abundant acidity, fresh Granny Smith apple, lemon zest, apple pie, white flowers and summer meadow aromas and flavours. Yes, of course I bought some.

Second up was the 2024 Pinot Noir Cuvée, Grower Series made from a blend of Dijon 113, 115, 777 and UC Davis clone 13. These grapes came from just south of the border in Chelan, Washington, as this was the winter of the terrible vine freeze. Translucent ruby turning garnet, this has a nose of Byng cherry and red twizzlers with flavours of pronounced cherry with mushroom. There’s a beautiful basket of support for this delicate and elegant 13% abv wine.

We also tasted the 2024 Syrah made with grapes also from Rattlesnake AVA in Chelan, Washington. What a lovely, sumptuous wine – all deep ruby with a nose and palate of deep boysenberry and crunch raspberry. Delicious.

The pièce de résistance though was the 2022 bottle of Dijon 777 Pinot Noir. A gorgeous and layered example of their Pinot program, this wine is garnet with lightly developed sour and Byng cherry peppered with mushroom and cedar. Clean and delicious.

I’m sorry to say that was the last bottle available. Shay was very generous and we got very lucky! But I will advise you to run (don’t walk) to your closest private liquor store and buy whatever you can find of these wines. Or better yet, become one of their wine club members; they ship to most places in Canada. I did.

CODE wines are the real deal – and the Codes are lovely humans to boot. Finally, their dog Poppy is probably the sweetest winery dog I’ve met yet. We almost left with her that day.

Happy drinking.

Posted in British Columbia, Chardonnay, OTHER, Pinot Noir, RED, red wine, Shiraz / Syrah, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Chenin Blanc, Le Haut-Lieu, Demi-Sec, Domaine Huet, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France, 2015, 13% abv, US$50

When we visited the Loire, and went to Vouvray and Domaine Huet in June 2014, I fell in love quite seriously with these wines.

Then, when I did my Court of Master Sommelier, level one exam in August 2014, I nailed a blind tasting verbal note of a dry Domaine Huet Chenin Blanc – its unmistakable lamb’s wool, honeycomb, green grass and mineral profile screamed out to me.

Also, I am always in awe of any property that commits to and maintains their Demeter certification; it’s so much work and an extraordinary commitment.

As a result of this, the largest portion of my sleeping bottles are from Huet. My collection of Le Mont and Le Haut-Lieu is incomplete, but extends back to a few bottles from 2002, with most falling in the 20-teens.

This bottle was opened recently when one of my daughters was home. Such a special visit deserved an equally outstanding wine moment.

Deep, translucent gold with aromas and a demi-sec off dry palate of mandarin orange, lemon souffle, ripe apricot, quince and dry straw this wine is beautifully developed with a viscous sweet and sour electricity.

What a happy drinking moment, smack dab in the middle of its perfect drinking window at 11 years old.

Posted in Chenin Blanc, France, Loire, OTHER, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Toast to Memories – Pinot Blanc (Weisser Burgunder), “Kalkgestein”, Weingut Friedrich Becker, Deutscher Qualitatswein trocken, Pfalz, Germany, 13% abv., 2023 and Merlot, Château Fombrauge, Bernard Magrez, Saint Emilion AC, Bordeaux, Grand Cru, France, 15% abv., 2009, C$55

My mom would have turned 84 this May, so to remember her, we joined with one of my sisters, her husband and a niece to enjoy dinner at one of Mom’s favourite restaurants, toast her and laugh over some great memories.

The first wine we opened was brought to me recently by an old friend whom I’d met while backpacking in Indonesia back in 1990. This German Pinot Blanc is masterful – the colour of straw with glints of green – it has gorgeous fresh aromas and flavours of white flowers and early summer honeysuckle, white grapefruit, apricot, lemon and lime. Its acidity is mouth watering, its minerality uplifting and its freshness and fruit superb.

Our second bottle in mom’s honour was a super stunning mostly Merlot (80) with Cabernet Franc (12) and Cabernet Sauvignon (8) from Bordeaux’s Right Bank. An absolute powerhouse of a wine, this is the epitome of what is meant when Merlot-based wines are said to offer gorgeous, plush mouthfeel and sultry tannins.

This deep garnet wine is outstanding in terms of its flavours and aromas which show delicious intensity at every turn; iris and violet, blue and black berries, the deepest purple plum, and cinnamon, clove and nutmeg riding on a soft leather saddle. The velvety tannins melt in your mouth, and the finish is long and developed. I bought this wine in 2009, so was thrilled to open it after 17 years of careful storage.

Eighty-four years of age, a 36 year old friendship, a 17 year old wine and innumerable memories – all in honour of one mom.

Posted in Cabernet Franc, cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, France, Germany, Merlot, OTHER, Pinot Blanc, RED, Red, red wine, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tempranillo, López de Heredia – Viña Tondonia Rioja Reserva, Rioja DOCa, Spain, 13% abv., 2008, C$100

My heart dropped.

I had opened the López de Heredia – Viña Tondonia Rioja Reserva 2008 for a dinner with some German guests and was hoping it may still be in a drinking window.

It wasn’t even close. The 2008 had died – it was lifeless with no aroma or flavour.

Luckily, I had a bottle of the same wine from 2011 waiting in the wings and thankfully, it had plenty of life in it yet.

On the eyes, it was a translucent shade of ruby with developed aromas of dried strawberry and preserved red plum. The palate showed more dried and super ripe red and purple plums and strawberries, alongside nutmeg and cinnamon with sweet cured leather glove.

Let this be a lesson to all ye who, like me, forget to track and drink on time! Seriously – it’s embarrassing. Invest in some software already! The excel spreadsheet is no longer doing the job.

We opened and enjoyed this with bbq’d ribs and fresh garden salad in April 2026 (15 years old). If you’re holding, get going and drop me a line in the comments if you use tracking software or an app you think I should know about.

Posted in Graciano, Grenache / Garnacha, Mazuelo, OTHER, RED, red wine, Spain, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Discover Farm-to-Table Dining in Bratislava’s Old Town at Pod Kamennym Stromom

We were walking in Bratislava’s old town looking for an authentic Slovakian restaurant when we spotted intriguing signs promising true Bratislavan farm-to-table cooking in a 13th century cellar, and Slovakian wines, spirits and beers, with ‘no Heineken bullshit’.  I laughed out loud.

Then, we read the second guarantee, ‘Not a tourist trap!’  We were in.

Marek greeted us literally with open arms and invited us to dine in the courtyard or downstairs in the cellar, renovated in 2010.  It was cold – we chose the cozy downstairs cellar.

The menu changes daily depending on what is possible from his small village suppliers.  So, that afternoon we had zander (a Slovakian fish, aka pikeperch) and potatoes, prepared with local cold-pressed sunflower oil.  We also devoured the best pirogis of the trip, stuffed with fresh sheep cheese and sprinkled liberally with the most delicious pork belly we’d ever tasted.

A kindred wine lover, and proud Slovakian, Marek really understood my local wine tasting goals, and brought several options to the table made by Vino Šimonovič winery, located north of Bratislava in Modra’s Little Carpathians region.

There’s a common naming convention for many modern indigenous Slovakian-bred grape varieties; red grapes are named for rivers, and white grapes are named for castles and castle ruins, of which Slovakia has the highest number per capita in the world.

This naming convention only applies to new hybrids though; the most commonly planted varietals in Slovakia are still traditional European varieties such as Grüner Veltliner (Veltlinske) and Rizling Vlašský (Welschriesling).

Eighty percent of Slovakian wines produced are white – and there are some excellent ones.  With my zander, I enjoyed Šimonovič’s Devín (Traminer x Veltlinske, named after that town’s castle at the former Iron Curtain) – pale lemon colour and intense aromatics of white peach, apricot, honey and white flowers, with strong minerality and good acidity.  I finished with some Dunaj (named after the Danube) with fresh and crunchy raspberry, black and sour cherry, and red twizzler on the nose and palate.

Dessert for me was a delicious Slovakian digestif – Višňovica, a cherry spirit, hot at 42% abv and reminiscent of sour cherries and marzipan.

We loved this lunch and Marek so much, we came back the next day prior to leaving for Vienna for more fish (carp this time), pirogis, wine, and Hruškovica (pear brandy).

You cannot go wrong if you choose to meet Marek and enjoy his food and genuine hospitality.  He will recount stories of growing up in Slovakia under the Communists and his first trip to the West as a teenager, how his grandparents endured (like many of their generation, they were born, lived and died under as many as 6 different regimes), and how rough it has been to operate his restaurant through Covid and other challenges. 

Yet he has endured.  This was no ‘tourist trap’ – only the best hospitality, food and wine Bratislava has to offer.

 

 

 

Posted in Devin, Dunaj, RED, Slovakia, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Some Spanish Wines to Start the Year

Everyone has one of those moments – either they enjoy a special bottle, travel to a specific wine region, or they have a wine experience that helps them decide that this wine thing is their new passion.  Mine was a trip to Spain.

In 2009, I was invited to Spain for 10 days and hosted by various business partners.  The wining and dining left a significant imprint – so much so that I was inspired to start the WSET journey culminating in the Diploma.  

As a result, often when I do bespoke tastings for groups, I highlight the wines I love best from Spain – and that’s what I did at my Mom’s long term care retirement facility to start off the new year.

We started off with a white Rioja made of Viura (aka Macabeo) – I’ll never, ever forget there is a white Rioja, because I got that question wrong on an exam once.  I stood corrected, and have enjoyed them and their creamy lemon, pineapple and white peach profiles ever since.  

I picked Rioja because it is one of two Spanish DOs that have the higher C/Q quality rating, the second being Priorat where I visited in 2015.  It’s really difficult to find Priorat reds with accessible price points, but the 2021 Els Pics (‘The Peaks’) by Bodegas Mas Alta fit the bill.

We talked about the llicorella (blue slate) soils these Carinyena and Garnatxa grapes grow in with their roots that extend into for up to 40m, and the deep currant, plum and umami aromas and flavours that permeate the wines.

The last wine proved to be a bigger hit than I’d imagined.  I’d been ready for push back, but the Gonzalez Byass Jerez DO Oloroso off dry sherry paired with a kit-kat bar was the most popular one of the afternoon.  In fact, when the GM walked in at the end of the tasting, the residents were vocal about wanting to see it put permanently on their evening drink card.

I’d also visited the Sherry Triangle in 2017, and had brought home some examples of the unique chalky, powdery albariza soils famous for growing the Palomino grapes Sherry needs.  Again, it’s hard to imagine someone thought 3,000 years ago, ‘Hmmm, let’s plant some vines and see what happens’ in soil like that.

There were a few more converts to Spanish wine that afternoon.  Salud!

Posted in Carignan, FORTIFIED WINE, Grenache / Garnacha, OTHER, Palomino, Pedro Ximenez / Pedro Gimenez, RED, red wine, Sherry, Spain, Viura / White Rioja, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Discover New Grapes: A Global Wine Adventure

Recently I had the opportunity to introduce 20 lovely people to 9 different grapes from 5 different countries, in 3 different sparkling wines, and 2 still ones.

I am not a fan of boring wines, nor of showing people what they already know and love (or don’t).  So, this was a great chance for me to win a few converts to new wine styles and grapes.

When everyone was arriving, we started with a small glass of Bella’s sparkling Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay.  Bella is Canadian and located in the Okanagan Valley’s small town of Naramata.  I paired it with two classic matches – Ruffle potato chips and popcorn.

Wine number two was another sparkler – but this time, a Cava from Penedes made of Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello.  Only two people had tried a Cava before and it proved to be a big hit when paired with some Iberian ham and Manchego cheese.

Everyone has had Prosecco, so I introduced the group to an Italian Lambrusco which was an enormous hit.  Shockingly, only one person had tried Lambrusco before, and not like this one – beautifully light and frothy, slightly off dry and fruity with rosemary and watermelon aromas and flavours.  The bruschetta appetizer matched the wine’s acidity perfectly.  This wine was a highlight of the evening.

For the first still wine, we had Domaine Wachau’s entry level Gruner Veltliner from Austria.  A new experience for everyone there, it was phenomenal with the schnitzel and creamy coleslaw.  Dill, white pepper and tarragon in both the food and the wine showed beautifully and the acidity kept us wanting more.

We finished with the Jeune Red from Lebanon’s famed Chateau Musar.  No one had known that the wine referenced in the Bible (turning water into wine…) is believed to have been from what is now the Bekka Valley.  The Lebanese (aka The Phoenicians) are the ones who introduced wine to Greece and Rome.  Wine has a solid 6,000 year history in that region of the world.  And this lovely red of Cinsault and Syrah was perfect with our mini soft pita and beef topped with tzatziki.

It really was a phenomenal evening – with lots of laughter and chatter.  My watch warned me several times it was dangerously loud!

That’s how wine should be – fun, and loud, and new, and exciting.
Mission accomplished.

Posted in Austria, British Columbia, Cava, Chardonnay, Cinsault, Lambrusco, Lebanon, Macabeu, Macabeu/Viura, OTHER, Parellada, RED, Shiraz / Syrah, Spain, Sparkling Wine, WHITE, Xarel-lo | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Château La Tour du Pin Figeac, Saint Émilion, Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 12.5% abv., 1998, US$37 (opened October 30, 2025)

I panicked a little while searching for something to take to a friend’s for dinner. I found this 1998 sitting at the bottom of the wine cabinet. I had honestly forgotten it was there.

Initially, I was concerned I’d missed the drinking window. Then I realized I’d purposely hidden it. I’d wanted to let it age quietly until the moment we opened it.

This was a wine from some seriously old terroir.  But in 2006, the 11 ha that comprise La Tour du Pin Figeac were sold to Cheval Blanc. That makes this absolutely unique wine, from a spectacular vintage, a unicorn.  WineSearcher has gone so far as to assert that “The quality for the Merlot-dominant wines of St-Émilion and Pomerol was so high, they are recognized as not just being the standout wines of the vintage, but some of the finest expressions since 1990.”

It’s important to recognize Cheval Blanc would not have purchased the vineyards unless they were among Bordeaux’s most serious terroir. So that will give you some idea as to the outstanding quality of this bottle.

The wine was a deep and developed garnet, with a spectacularly complex nose and palate of blackberry, kirsch, cassis, mulberry and leather purse. The beautiful body showed exquisite, silky tannins. I realized this was a new experience; I had never tasted tannins like that before – soft, plush, and powdery.  The finish lingered.

Most of this wine is Merlot with about 37% Cabernet Franc and only 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The acidity is perfect, and the wine evolved with our evening.  We didn’t decant, but instead allowed it to open in our glasses over the course of a couple of hours.  We drank it alongside some delicious and hearty beef stew pie.

Since the vineyards have been sold, they’ll never make a wine like this again. The fruit from La Tour du Pin Figeac will be instead merged with Cheval Blanc’s Grand Vin.

What a treat it was though, this wine that was the 1998 version of Cheval Blanc’s Figeac.

And no, we did not share it with the cat.

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, France, Merlot, OTHER, RED | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Volunteer Wine Tastings: Enriching Lives Through Shared Experiences

This past summer, I led a couple of tastings for residents at my mom’s long term care community.  It may be long term care, but everyone who attends is interested and active and wants to learn more.  It’s terribly gratifying to speak about wine with these folks, all of whom have lived full and fantastic lives.  

My goal with the first one was to introduce the 18 participants to some unusual grapes they perhaps hadn’t tried before.  It was a smashing success.  We opened three bottles – an Italian made from a lemony, floral Grillo, another Italian made from Verdecchio showing peach, nettle and almond, and the last one from Korcula, Croatia made predominantly from Posip grown on a stony island rising out of the Adriatic.

The second tasting combined a slide show of pictures and videos I took during my 10 day trip to Burgundy for the 2025 harvest.   Everyone enjoyed a Pinot Noir (Dom. Michel Briday, 2020, Rully), and a lovely Chardonnay (Maison Perron de Mypont, 2022), alongside some delicious French bread and comté cheese.

I cannot tell you how gratifying it is to introduce these seniors to wines they haven’t tried or heard of before, and to the details of my trip to Burgundy.   Without fail, every person is gracious and interested – no matter what each may be dealing with on a personal basis.

I do these tastings and events on a volunteer basis, and am grateful to be included in the enrichment schedule.  It’s always a wonderful afternoon.

Posted in Burgundy, Chardonnay, Croatia, France, Italy, OTHER, Pinot Noir, Posip, Verdicchio, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Pinot Gris + Riesling, Alluvium, Fort Berens Estate Winery, Lillooet, BC VQA, 12.5% abv., 2023, C$20

Winemaker, Seth JexI’m always on the lookout for a wine I can enjoy by myself or with company that I don’t have to think too hard about.  But, it has to have been made ethically and sustainably, and it’s a bonus if it doesn’t kill my wallet.

Meet my new daily drinker, the Alluvium white blend from Lillooet’s Fort Berens Estate Winery.

I had wanted to visit Fort Berens for quite a while and finally we made it there in person. In case you don’t know, Lillooet is uniquely tucked into a rain shadow at the base of the Coast Mountains.  Although it’s 180 km north of the well known South Okanagan, it’s positioned 100m lower.  In addition, its location in the mountains means the growing season is extended and blessed with super warm days and very cool evenings.  That diurnal shift is perfect for grape growing.

We lucked out during our visit, as winemaker Seth Jex was behind the counter. Super knowledgeable and so friendly, Seth showed us his brand new barrels, and we tasted the pressed Pinot juice that will become this vintage’s rosé, and the pétillant Chardonnay that’s well on its way to becoming wine.

Seth was in the middle of harvest, so it was kind of him to take the time.  He had many projects on the go, but he couldn’t have been kinder and more interested in showing us the winery, crush pad, and new barrels.

On the eyes, this fabulous find of a wine is straw, with a floral nose featuring white peach and just a splash of honeysuckle.  The palate is all grapefruit pith and lime zest, more stone fruit, white flowers and slate.

It has always fascinated me that Fort Berens grows noble varietals IN LILLOOET.  I mean, take a look at a map, people!  It’s located at 50.6940N-121.9330W – that’s located substantially to the north.  For comparison, the Loire Valley is located along 47N latitude and Champagne is at 49N-4E.  And yet, with their unique positioning in this microclimate, it is more than possible to produce excellent quality grapes and wines in Lillooet.

I urge you to pick up a bottle of this or another of their delicious products – and see for yourself the proof of what is being produced in BC’s interior.

Posted in BC, British Columbia, OTHER, Pinot Gris, Riesling, WHITE, Winery Review | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment