A ‘No Spit’ Bucket List Day in Burgundy’s Côte D’Or with Hautes Côtes 

DSC_0201When we started planning a trip anchored to the 2024 Monaco Grand Prix, I knew I also needed to plan a stop just up the road in Burgundy.

Now, Burgundy is a hallowed wine region, and one which demands muchDSC_0219 more than a one day visit, but that’s all the time I had.  So, I put the word out to my wine world friends and colleagues, and lo and behold, I got some great suggestions for a plan of attack.

I booked a bespoke day tour of the Côte D’Or (historically the moIMG_8999st important regions of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune together) with 32DAA50C-4E68-463A-82A5-8E49D40530EEIMG_9004Hautes Côtes, a small company with some powerful connections that plans art and wine experiences of the highest calibre. I spoke with my guide, Pierre Denis, prior to leaving Canada, and toured the 60 km long Route des Grands Crus with him from Dijon to Santenay and back.

89FF542E-9930-4FE9-AD93-666745591753A16C7A7B-8E11-4766-B244-BF50B0AB12ABThe day included visits to some of the most mythical vineyard plots from the Côte de Nuits – such as La Romanée Conti, Le Musigny, and Le Clos de Vougeot. I also feasted on pigeon at Ma Cuisine in Beaune, where the owner suggested a half bottle of Domaine Rollin’s 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses – fun as Pierre had worked that harvest there.

Two superb tastings were also part of the day – one at the historic Domaine Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, and the other in the tiny village of Santenay at Le Domaine du DSC_0214Château de la Crée.  Ironically, I had visited both their Willamette Valley sister wineries, so it was as if my wine life was coming full circle.

I’ve had some incredible wine experiences, but this one may be the most magnificent one to date.  I only had a day, but I fulfilled a ‘no spit’ bucket list item in great style.IMG_9069DSC_0212

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Aleatico + Nielluciu, Le Rappu, Clos Paoli, AOP Coteaux du Cap Corse, Morsiglia, Cap Corse, Corsica, France, NV, 15% abv., 16 €

05E34A36-7659-4D4B-9E32-44EF238F9B33Ever since I studied the wines of Corsica during the WSET Diploma Wines of the World course, I have wanted to visit the island, birthplace of Napoleon, and see it for myself.
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We made a trip in June 2024 and couldn’t believe its unparalleled beauty.  The Cap Corse, a bump-like peninsula on the northern tip, is truly spectacular.  This is where we met Dominique Lappi at his family’s petite winery in Morsiglia on Cap Corse’s rugged northwest shore.

F566E587-7498-4A32-8E96-FC1AE75A8FCAClos Paoli, named for his mother’s side of the family, only produces about 8,000 bottles a year on their 15 hectares, and all are made from native Corsican varietals and in traditional ways.  Le Blanc is 100% Vermentinu – fresh, fruity, dried flowers and mineral, Le Rosé, a lovely blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Nielluciu, and Le Rouge, the opposite blend of the same grapes.  All sport a light 12.5% abv which makes them super approachable and wonderfully refreshing.

Luckily for me, Dominique spoke perfect English.  He introduced me to their Cap Corse specialty, Le Rappu.  This stunning fortified wine is produced by drying the grapes on the DSC_0254slate in the fields and then pressing them to make wine in the tinazzi tradition – large, open wooden tubs.  The wine is later fortified and then aged in oak barrels for 10 years.

The resulting wine is extraordinary – remarkably light with a8B292FC8-FF0A-4FE6-B89C-C7F99F899497 translucent garnet/ruby colour, and a nose full of sweet pipe tobacco, just-turned raspberry, deep red plum and prune, light cassis, fig, date, mocha and hazelnut.  With its fresh acidity and light tannins, this treat is delightfully quaffable, and with no cloying sweetness.  I bought a bottle and enjoyed some every night for a week before flying home.

Perfect with Gorgonzola, dark chocolate, chocolate mousse or tiramisu, it wasIMG_1010 also soulmate to a Corsican lamb pie with chestnut purée we enjoyed.

I really wish I could have bought many bottles of this as well as their Le Myrte, digestif and their Limoncello for which Dominique said he peeled many of their estate grown lemons.  The Limoncello was unlike any I’d ever had before – a pure lemon curd bomb with awesome acidity.  I’ve been ruined for all future Limoncellos.

If you happen to find yourself on Corsica, you must drop by their stone tasting 2BF1A7DE-D762-46A8-BD97-9557A73D4FFEshed and meet with Dominique for a tasting.  Tell him I sent you!  While I was obsessing over the wine, my husband was drooling over a genuine Corsican ‘barn find’ – a completely original and intact 1930 Donnet Six – hiding in the back of the tasting room.

IMG_6631You could also take part in their ‘dinner in the vineyard’ offer.  And make sure you’re shipping a bag home so you can bring back multiple DSC_0251bottles.  It’s more than worth the effort.IMG_6635

Posted in aleatico, Corsica, FORTIFIED WINE, France, Le Rappu, OTHER, RED | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Douro Branco, Luis Seabra Vinhos, Xisto Ilimitado, Portugal, 2021, 12% abv., C$42

This wine comes from the northern Portuguese vineyards of Luis Seabra and is made from a field blend of Rabigato, Códega, Gouveio, Vioshino and other indigenous varietals.  The vines range between 30-60 years old, and are grown at 400-500m.

C0518049-7D15-4017-A7BE-81E015A8C3D2After picking, the fruit is pressed as a field blend and left to co-ferment with native yeasts.  The wine ages 7 months in French oak but there’s no MLF or battonage, so the wine produced has super minerality and fruity clarity.

Lemon colour on the eyes, the nose shows verbena, sparkly minerality, seagrass, lemon balm and high acidity.

The palate is a delicious combination of more lemon verbena, lemon balm and lemongrass, light oak, white peach and refreshing salinity.

We drank (nay, guzzled) this with roast pork and veggies, and toasted the gift givers, Moni and DJ who brought it to me from a specialty store in Bend, Oregon.  For any intrepid drinkers out there, it’s available in BC at some private wineshops and I recommend it highly.

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Tempranillo, Vina Bosconia, Lopez de Heredia, Rioja DOCa., Spain, 2009, 13.5% abv. US$50

I’m going to be dreaming about having enjoyed this bottle for a while yet.  It’s a classic Riojan red blend from benchmark winery, Lopez de Heredia – one of my absolute favourite houses.

A stunning blend of Tempranillo (80) with Garnacha (15), and Mazuelo/Graciano 29C85A44-7635-43A6-BC5E-4A6810C4A231(5), the Bosconia is a translucent ruby turning ever-so-lightly to garnet – which in and of itself is remarkable for a 15 year old wine.  The nose shows ripe strawberry with clove, cinnamon, sandalwood and green hay, while the fresh, clean palate echoes it with addition of sour cherry, rose petal and light leather belt.  The finish is beautifully long on this delicious wine which has a long life ahead of it.  If you have some, it will go for a good decade more.

One day, I will get there in person. But, until I make my pilgrimage to Rioja, I will continue to enjoy these bottles with friends.  Thanks Frank and Suzanne for making the veal Marsala that accommodated this wine so phenomenally.

Posted in Graciano, Grenache / Garnacha, Mazuelo, OTHER, RED, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Gin, Lady Trieu, Hoi An Spice Road; The Lab Series, Edition 1, Nguyen Nguyen Distillery, Cu Chi, Vietnam, 43% abv., 700 ml., US$50

IMG_6098We took a trip recently to Vietnam – I highly recommend this country as a IMG_5994place to travel to.  The people are extraordinarily gracious, the food isIMG_6713 almost uniformly delicious everywhere you go, and the country is incredibly beautiful.

There’s another reason now – the limited edition line of Lady Trieu Gins crafted in Cu Chi, just north of Ho Chi Minh City.

IMG_5113IMG_6192IMG_5406I tried many new things during this trip including some (very hot) rice alcohol, and some ‘snake wine’.  Most of the beer I encountered was unremarkable, but the bartenders at our Hanoi hotel took good care of me with awesome cocktails.

IMG_5719IMG_5650Then there was the Martini I ordered in Hoi An – which ended up being literally that, a shot of Martini Vermouth. Vietnam’s coffee game is s t r o n g, which made me deliriously happy.  This was the only positive holdover from colonization that I could see, except maybe for the bread used for Ban Mi.

IMG_5578IMG_5574But this Gin was a huge winner and I was happy to be able to bring some back home to Canada.  The Lady Trieu Distillery has developed a series of Gins, each celebrating the distinct biodiversity and history of different regions of Vietnam.  I chose the Hoi An Spice Road because we had enjoyed touring the Old Town streets and pagodas at the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.

Hoi An was at one time a bona fide crossroads of the world – the most important port city of the transcontinental Spice Trade.  This history is reflected in the botanicals selected for distilling – in particular, the pomelo and lime peel, ginger root, cardamom, coriander and red peppercorns – give it a fabulous citrus and spice profile.IMG_6714

Drink it on its own or on an ice cube to bring out the aromas.  Although you can, I feel it’s too good to smother with a mixer.  You can purchase Lady Trieu  Gin in Cambodia, Lao, Thailand, Singapore and Vietnam.  Now that I know this, I’m planning my next trip.

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Charity fundraising tasting

Amalia and Bubba, Dec 2019During Cov*d, I offered a wine tasting with paired hors d’oeuvres to a local Rotary Club fundraiser for the Victoria Hospice Society in the memory of my father-in-law, Ken, who spent his last days there.

Of course, because of Cov*d, tastings were not possible for a couple of years.  But, I was able to do it recently.  9D5CB9B1-525C-4692-8F6E-39C48D8FCDE7

I prepared a tasting of four distinct red wines from around the world for some lovely folks.  We explored a single varietal, very plummy Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Cugnoli, Italy, an earthen Plavac Mali blended with some international varietals from the stony, hot slopes of Brac, Croatia, a Grenache and old vine Syrah from the Cotes Catalanes of Southern France, and a Zin and Petite Syrah blend with plenty of sweet tobacco from California’s Suisun Valley.B49F38D1-BDE2-46F2-B390-64ADF95FB9AA

It was a lot of fun and I was delighted that the silent auction had raised $400 for the Victoria Hospice.

Posted in cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, California, France, Grenache / Garnacha, Italy, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Petite Sirah, Plavac Mali, RED, Shiraz / Syrah, Zinfandel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Zinfandel, Split Rail, St. Anne’s Crossing Winery, Dry Creek Valley AVA, Sonoma County, California, 15.7% abv., 2020, US$44

On a recent trip to California, I met some truly fabulous people – people who treated me like a member of their own family, and who I can’t wait to host in BC some day.  Brenda and Joe were two of those people. IMG_5153

They took me with them on an afternoon of tasting Zinfandels at their favourite winery, St. Anne’s Crossing in Kenwood, California.

The 11 Wilson Artisanal wineries, of which St. Anne’s Crossing is one, have two winemakers who produce over 100 different wines, many of which are Zinfandels, at their Pezzi King Vineyards Winery.  In addition, owner Ken Wilson owns the entire Rockpile AVA.

91745B69-AC09-4BA4-8F95-F9BEE9770628IMG_4093As wine club members, we were offered a premium tasting; Scottish transplant, Jacqui, led us expertly through 9 very different wines including a Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, A Petite Sirah, several blends, and four Zinfandels.

It was hard to choose the one bottle that I would bring across the border back to Canada, but I settled on the Split Rail.

Made from Single Vineyard Pezzi King Ranch 100% Zinfandel, it’s deep ruby with a nose and palate of strawberry, red plum and bramble, buttressed by leather strap and tobacco leaf. Classic Zin, with a nicely rounded palate and great tannins.

It was a great afternoon with great friends and great wine.  If you’re keen on Zinfandels, be sure to give this winery a close look.

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Pinot Noir, Walraven Vineyard, Domaine Anderson, Anderson Valley AVA, California, 14.5% abv., 2019 US$70

DSC_0161IMG_3408Travelling down the highway from Mendocino on our way to Truckee, California, I yearned for a tasting at Domaine Anderson.  We’d been to the Anderson Valley several years prior, but had visited their sister winery, Roederer at that time.  

IMG_3410DSC_0174Domaine Anderson is nestled into a refined and graceful setting – the architecture of the tasting room and surrounding buildings is beautiful.  Everything is in harmony – which is hardly surprising because these folks are cognizant of how important that is; they run an organic and biodynamic outfit.  Their vineyards are all certified organic, and the Dach in particular is Demeter Certified Biodynamic.  

I met Gregg Lamer that morning, Director of Hospitality and Tasting Room Operations for the three Roederer owned wineries (Roederer Estate, Scharfenberger Cellars, and Domaine Anderson).  Gregg managed my experience masterfully – withDSC_0165 just the right amount of information and presence.  

gEpyRI6wRN2YGep24G4pJQ_pb_x960I was a fan of both the Walraven Vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Walraven is their warmest growing region in the south of the valley, but also has the most altitude featuring Chardonnay clone 124, and Dijon clones 114 and 667.  

Walraven Pinot Noir
Eyes – translucent cherry
Nose – Penny Royal with Byng cherry and ripe strawberry
Palate – More Byng cherry with strawberry and boysenberry compote, lingering mint layered with some leather belt, gracious tannins and acidity.  Drinkable now, or keep for 3-5 yearsDSC_0167
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There’s a reason this winery made the 2023 list of the world’s top 100 in Wine & Spirits Magazine.  Elegantly constructed and delicious wines shown off in beautiful surroundings by top quality people will do that.

 

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Roussanne, Uni, Stolpman Vineyards, Ballard Canyon AVA, Los Olivos, California, 12% abv., 2021, US$30

IMG_4142The night before I’d been to a renowned restaurant that listed Stolpman Vineyards on their wine list, so I thought I’d pay them a visit at their outdoor tasting room in lovely Los Olivos, California – a small town with many dozens of winetasting options.

Owner Peter Stolpman, values his long-standing crew members, so dedicatesIMG_4145 several of his wines to them. For example, the rosé being tasted was the “Para Maria” with half of the profits going to his employee of 20 years.  There was also a red blend – Syrah, Sangiovese and Grenache – called “La Cuadrilla” in honour of the farming team/crew. 

IMG_4150At least 10% of the vineyard’s production goes into the blend. The profits are returned to the crew members, divided by seniority, in the form of both a year-end bonus as well as weekly bonuses on each paycheck.

The big year-end bonus allows crew members to add to their savings, while the weekly bonus increases the quality of everyday life for La Cuadrilla and their families. I’ve never seen this kind of profit sharing with vineyard workers, so was quite intrigued.

La Cuadrilla tends their dry farmed, estate grown grapes by hand only – no tractors or heavy machinery are used.  And the fermentations are all spontaneous and indigenous with no inoculations or other additions.  

I enjoyed my outdoor tasting with Lisa (US$20) and bought a bottle of their ‘Uni’ – a mostly RoussanneIMG_4148 and 30% Chardonnay white blend with a herbal palate and nose of honey, acacia, pineapple, and nettle.  Acidity is high on this wine and it is marketed to local Japanese restaurants – hence the sea urchin name and theme.

IMG_4147Definitely worthy of a visit (make a reservation online) if you’re in the Solvang-Buellton area.

 

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Chenin Blanc, David Monopole, Arnaud Lambert, Brézé, Saumur AOC, Loire Valley, France, 2020, 13.9% abv., US$88

In September 2023, we dropped into Monterey, California for the Rennsport 7 Reunion, a kind of convention for Porsche enthusiasts.  On the last night, and to celebrate 20 years of being together, weIMG_4324 dined at ‘Passionfish’.7179083551

We are no slouches when it comes to finding outstanding meals, but this one may have been the best overall one we have ever experienced.

It was due in no small part to the exquisite wine list which emphasized not only unusual varietals, and organic and biodynamic producers, but also placed importance upon making wine as accessible as possible to everyone by listing bottle prices close to retail.

This made me very, very happy.

This wine is produced in Saumur AOC (Loire Valley) by Arnaud Lambert and his father Yves who first converted their tuffeau soils to organic status, and just recently to biodynamic.  This region really does offer superior terroir – and the whites are often compared to those of Montrachet.

Our server Karle suggested this wine as her favourite, but it was no hard sell for me – Chenin is my preferred varietal.

Eyes – pale lemon
Nose – white peach, quince, Granny Smith apple, lemon zest, salt, minerality
Palate – quince, Meyer lemon zest, mandarin peel, more minerality, lanolin, and wet stonesIMG_4325
Electric and bright with super acidity, beautiful and tight, tight, tight! Meant to drink young, this wine saw a little bit of time in oak during its ageing process and was stirred once while on the lees.

It complimented our scallop with crabcake, mussels, and shrimp with white beans.  A 5 puttonyo Tokaji was shockingly perfect with our chocolate sorbet.6BC94435-3654-40DE-85E2-C965D580B013IMG_4328 IMG_4327 05D2E325-0400-44B0-8FDB-7E66EDFD956D

Posted in Chenin Blanc, France, Loire, OTHER, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments