Grenache, Santa Ynez Valley, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Qupé, Santa Maria, California, 2006, 14.5% abv., $80

In September 2023, I stopped while passing through Buellton, California for dinner at The Hitching Post II.  I’d been planning this dinner in my head for a while and had already decided to order a special bottle to enjoy – as one does at the Hitching Post.IMG_4117

Some of you may remember the Hitching Post as the scene of several dinners in the movie Sideways (2004) – and most significantly as the infamously over-served wine extravaganza featuring Paul Giamatti (Miles), Thomas Haden Church (Jack), Sandra Oh (Stephanie), and Virginia Madsen (Maya). 

I arrived for my 7pm reservation and waited… and waited.  After the third person walked through the foyer without acknowledging my presence, someone finally did.  I was led to what must be the worst table in the house – a two seater placed smack dab in the kitchen entrance.

IMG_4116Initially I started to put my coat on the back of the chair and even thought about dutifully sitting down.  But then, I saw what was happening here – single, 55+ woman, gray hair – dispensable and invisible.

There were many empty tables; I insisted upon a new seat. And then I proceeded to order this wine.

Eyes – translucent garnet
Nose – complex Byng cherry, pomegranate, garrigue, and dried herb
Palate – significant development, sour and super ripe Byng cherries, blood orange rind, tarragon, anise, black olive
Drinking at its peak, absolutely sublime, pure sunshine and happiness (16 yo at opening).

In Sideways, Virginia Madsen’s character gives a heartfelt speech about what makes wine special for her – what kind of a day was it when they harvested, who picked the grapes, who was there when it wasE5E5403B-3279-4DEF-AB8F-1FE50C3448ED bottled, are they still alive?  From the picture to the right, we know that Bob Lindquist was there – this 2006 wine was made well before he left in 2019.

In the end, I luxuriated in the wine, and had a lovely conversation with the people at the next table.  The wine was glorious, the dinner barely average, and my new table, much improved over the original version. 

Miles would have insisted on being moved.  So, I did too.
  

 

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White Pinot Noir, Eclipse, Tenbrink Vineyards, Tolenas Winery, Suisun Valley AVA, Fairfield, California, 2022, 14% abv., US$37

A800E147-31BC-4174-974D-FA4B31A4CA25IMG_3577This is pretty cool and happening stuff.  While Pinot Noir grapes have been pressed and used forever as part of sparkling wines and blends, it’s rare to find white versions as still wine.

This is the wine that won winemaker Lisa Howard the gold at the 2019 Women’s International Wine Competition.

When I was in Suisun (‘Soo-Soon’) Valley AVA recently, I had the opportunity to watch Lisa and husband Cliff press the Pinot Noir that had been harvested that morning for the 2023 version (picture left).  They also graciously allowed me to ‘help’ them the next day rack their 2023IMG_3746 Albariño (kind folks, they could have finished faster without me, picture right).

Suisun Valley AVA is the second oldest wine region in the USA to neighbouring Napa Valley.  Napa is renowned for its high prices and US$80/per person ++ tasting fees, but if you want authenticity and down-to-earth experiences, give Suisun a try.  Do it soon though, before the big, commercial wineries move in and buy up all the vineyards and land (already happening and coming soon, I fear).

IMG_3704IMG_3738The outdoor tasting garden at Tolenas is at the side of Lisa’s childhood home.  She and Cliff farm the vineyards with her father who started the whole operation – and is still working making wine and farming grapes.  Mary, their Tasting room manager, knows the wines inside and out.

When you go, don’t pass up the Eclipse – named for the Eclipse of 2017 when Lisa dreamt up the concept for this award-winning wine.

Eyes – delicate onion skin
Nose – white flower, nectarine and red currant
Palate – white peach and nectarine are layered over the herbaceous palate
Drink now and enjoy while it’s fresh, don’t hold.

This wine was outstanding paired with rice paper salad rolls and spicy peanut sauce at the local eatery in Fairfield, Two60.

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Chardonnay, Dream Field, Babcock Winery, Peake and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Lompoc, Sta. Rita AVA, Santa Barbara County, California, 2021, 13.9% abv., US$58

IMG_4213I have visited tasting rooms in seven countries, but this one nestled in the Santa Rita Hills is the most intriguing and relaxing I’ve ever been to.

Take a seat outside at one of the trendy, weather-worn tables decorated with beautifully potted succulents, and enjoy a glass or more.  The Babcock tasting experience has happiness and class imprinted all over it.IMG_4222

The main area is a huge 5,000 square foot former barrel storage building with a beautiful selection of what seems like never-ending, high quality options for purchase, carefully curated by Lisa Babcock.  As their website puts it, “It’s really a fusion of creativity that IMG_4212encompasses more than just wine.” (see video below)

There’s something for everyone here – from vintage motorcycle jackets and concert posters, to gourmet snacks, jewelry, no end of accessories, and of course, plenty of award-winning wine.IMG_4220

In 1995, winemaker Bryan Babcock was honoured by the James Beard Foundation as the only American on a list of ‘Top Ten Small Production Winemakers in the World’.  His wines are serious, coveted, and quite famous.  He has worked tirelessly for the Sta. Rita AVA.

IMG_4214Although he produces Pinots and a myriad unusual grapes that people come from milesIMG_4210 away to taste, it was approaching 90F, so I opted for some Chardonnay.  Relaxing outside at the crush pad, I was ecstatic.

There was no one to tell me how the wine should taste, and no one to hover over me and move me out within the allotted hour.  Just Chris, the really great, laid back, yet superbly professional and knowledgeable tasting room manager who clearly knows his stuff, some exquisite wine, and a fabulous soundtrack of classic and alt rock.  It’s an absolutely refreshing atmosphere to find at a winery.

Eyes – medium gold
Nose – yellow apple, lemon curd, a light sea salted caramel, and wet stone
Palate – lemon zest and lemon meringue, pineapple, with more salted caramel and minerality, dried stalks of lemongrass, and an ever-so-light touch of oak.  Medium plus acidity keeps you wanting more.  A completely integrated beginning and end tells the whole story

Hands down – if I lived anywhere within a decent drive of this place, I’d be a member in an instant and make weekly visits.  I finally found what I’ve been looking for.

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Viura, Viña Otano, Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja DOC, Spain, 2015, 13% abv., US$29

I bought two of these, but now wish I’d purchased two cases.ED3C5F52-2858-46B8-B483-96C505863FAA

A white Rioja made of 85% Viura with 10% Garnacha Blanca and 5% Maturana Blanca, this wine is a definite treat and can be held for a long time to come.  It will only improve with age and reminds me of a Tondonia, one of my favourite benchmark Spanish wineries.

These grapes are hand harvested from vines that will be 100 years old in 2025, and grown at 2000 feet in the top-ranked Alta region of Rioja.  We opened this bottle in 2023 at 8 years old.

IMG_3125IMG_3124Deep gold in colour, the nose has tones of sherry, sea salt, coconut, super ripe Barlett pear and bergamot.  The palate is delicious with almond, pear and ginger blossom, dried mandarin peel, and more Oloroso.

Its fabulous acidity will protect this as it ages, and the judicious use of oak will continue to integrate.  The finish is lovely and long, and the whole package is nestled in great construction.  If you have some, hold it to enjoy later – it’s only going to improve.

Posted in Grenache blanc, Oregon, OTHER, Spain, WHITE, White Grenache / Garnacha / Garnaxa | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Chenin Blanc, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, Appellation Savennières – Coulée de Serrant Contrôlée, Savennières, Loire Valley, France 2010, 15% abv., US$68.70 (in 2014)

I read a lot about wine, and the one thing that consistently irritates meIMG_3834 about so many reviews is the fawning, oh-my-god-this-wine-is-amazing accolades that IMG_2473many churn out.

The thing though is that, truly, there are many wines of the world which are just wines doing their thing – they’re just wine being wine.

They’re fine and dandy.  And that’s okay because, come on – not every wine can be a show stopping, benchmark wine of the world.  Not every wine is amazing – the vast majority are simply good or very good as long as they’re not flawed.  Full stop.

But then there are wines like this one – those produced by masters of the art of winemaking who allow the terroir to imprint the wine.  People who treat the earth and the vines with such respect and sustainable practices that the grapes are the leading characters and the winemakers are merely gently guiding the process from the sidelines.  And they’re not afraid to admit it – in fact, they embrace the role.

IMG_3833This is a stunning example of a benchmark white wine, from a famous piece of schist dominatedViriginie Joly 2014 dirt (planted since 1130 AD, see picture) which is now its own appellation, even though it’s only 13 hectares in size.  Nicholas Joly is the owner and winemaker, and his daughter Virginie whom I met in 2014 works alongside him in this capacity (see picture).

There is not much new I could tell you about the Jolys and their work – after all, he is an icon of hands off biodynamism, and the reason for the NNW (New Natural Movement).  But I can tell you this wine practically gave me whiplash, and sure made me sit up straight.

IMG_2475We opened it at 14 years old and did not decant it – we wanted to see how it would open up in the bottle over the evening.  We were unable to save any for the next few days to observe changes – we couldn’t stop ourselves and drank it in one sitting, even though Mr. Joly himself recommends enjoying his bottles over three days.  How anyone could wait so long to finish it is completely beyond me.

Deeply gold in colour, the aromas and palate were complex and powerful – carnation, spiced nutmeg and cinnamon, composted, super ripe yellow apple, fig, straw, and quince layered in over top salted sea caramel, walnut and Oloroso sherry.  The developed palate is rounded, full and waxy, supported by high acidity which means it can be held for many years to come.IMG_3830

Truly a work of art, this is a bottle to hold for another 5-7 years if you have some.  I am thrilled to say I have one more.  It’s going to take a lot for me to open it though.  That said, I am open to ideas.

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Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo – ‘3V’, Casa Madero, Val de Parras, Mexico, 2020, 13.7% abv.

DSC_0221DSC_0224Anyone who follows me on social media will know I was in Mexico recently with my family to celebrate 20 years of togetherness.  What better way to toast our family’s union than to enjoy a Mexican wine from the oldest winery in the Americas (est. 1597) with the anniversary dinner.

I have only ever had one other Mexican wine, and it wasn’t memorable (for the right reasons). That product was from the Baja, from where 90% of Mexican wines hail. But one must alwaysDSC_0124 maintain an open mind -and I’m glad I did, because the 3V was a lovely accompaniment to our celebratory dinner.

This 2020 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo from the Val de Parras IMG_2299(‘parras’ means ‘vines’ in Spanish), is grown at 1,525m.  This is the only reason wines of any measure of quality can be produced this far south – the altitude offers an air conditioning effect on the vines.  The Val de Parras is a microclimate oasis in the middle of what is otherwise mountain ranges and semi-desert.

DSC_0108Deep purple with aromas of strawberry, blueberry, plum and boysenberry, the palate shows the same fresh fruit, augmented with dried tobacco leaf, marvelous body, and good acidity.  It has spent 12 months ageing in American, European and French oak.

The Mexican wine industry is very tiny and only 5% of wines are ever exported, so you’re unlikely to be able to buy this outside of Mexico.  But if you have an opportunity, do try a bottle.

There is no regulation in Mexico with regard to wine production – so, there are no DOCG, AOC, or AVA styleE5A54FDF-209A-43FE-A358-18A14190E6BD denomination systems. This means there are no established rules to follow for winemakers, but it also means they’re figuring out what works in the wine regions and which grapes respond best to the terroir and microclimates.  I’d say Casa Madero has done the work, and the 3V (as well as the second bottle, Shiraz), proves it.  

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Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Velenosi, DOC, Classico, Italia, 2021, 12.5% abv., C$27

Verdicchio, the name of the grape used for this wine made in Le Marche, is often referred to as ‘the little green one’.  The wines produced tend to be crisp and powerful with great acidity and minerality. IMG_1877

Verdicchio is grown in a region located near the ancient city of Jesi on Italy’s eastern coast, over the Apennines from Rome.  They’ve been making this wine here for over 1,000 years and it is renowned as one of Italy’s finest whites.

True to form, this example of the little green one is the colour of pale straw with aromas of acacia flower and lemon balm.  Flavours show more acacia, green grass, verbena, and fennel.

Each sip offers mouth-watering acidity that goes beautifully with pecorino cheese and salumi.  Pick up some taralli as well to complement your charcuterie.  This wine is also fabulous with light and creamy pastas and fish courses.

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Riesling, Poet’s Leap, Long Shadows Vintners Collection, Columbia Valley AVA, Washington, USA, 12.5% abv., 2021, US$16

What’s the saying, ‘When in Rome…?’  Well, when in Washington State, find yourself some Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling from the Columbia Valley, because it’s one of the grapes they do best there.  

Pale yellow with aromas of green apple, kiwi and soft lemon, the palate offers more green and yellow apple, lemon zest and limeade with some freakishly high acidity that practically yells, “Drink more!”IMG_1274

Lightly off dry, it’s not cloying in the least.  Some additional flavours of ripe apricot, white peach, and fresh nectarine show up with a sliver of green grass just to make it interesting.  The long finish allows you time to admire its prettiness.

Fashioned in the tradition of the wines of Armin Diel, the infamous Riesling master whose family has been making wine in the Nahe since 1802, this complex wine is made by Gilles Nicault as part of the Long Shadows collection in Woodinville, WA.  Almost unbelievably, you can buy it at Costco for a mere US$16.  You’re welcome. 

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Tempranillo, Viña Cubillo, Crianza, Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Alta, Spain, 2012, 13.5 abv., US$40

DSC_7517Classic, classic, classic – it doesn’t get much better than this developed, yet still bright, mostly Tempranillo wine from benchmark Rioja winery, Lopez de Heredia.

The Cubillo vineyard has vines that are about 40 years old and the 65% Tempranillo is augmented by a traditional blend with Garnacha (25), Mazuelo, and Graciano (10).  This is the lightest and youngest of the DSC_7519Lopez de Heredia red wines and is often enjoyed much earlier than we did this one – but it was outstanding nonetheless (we opened it at 11 years old).

Translucent garnet, it has developed aromas of mushroom, oak, bark, and deeply composted leaves. DSC_7518 The dry palate is both soft and complex showing mocha nibs, cigar box, pastrami and walnut.  There’s even still some bright fruit – black plum and cranberry.  Spicy and candied, it has fabulous acidity and a lengthy
finish.

It was the perfect bottle to bring out for charcuterie and hanging out on a Friday.  If you have a bottle of this, enjoy now as it’s drinking perfectly.

Posted in Graciano, Grenache / Garnacha, Mazuelo, OTHER, RED, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Pinot Noir, Clone Collection Dijon 777, Code Wines, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC, 2020, 13.5% abv. C$34

DSC_7471Owners Shay and Harlee Code decided in 2016 to purchase land in Okanagan Falls on which they planted Viognier, Syrah, several clones of Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes.

In 2021, they made the full time move once their home and crush pad were established, but this bottle was made in 2020 at Roche (on the Naramata Bench).  All Code Wine from 2022 onward has been made at their own OK Falls winery building.

This is one lovely wine. Translucent magenta with aromas of cranberry, raspberry and green leaf, the palate is dry with light tannins and flavours of more cranberry, field berry, pomegranate, mint, and green grass.

We enjoyed this immensely with turkey, trimmings and fresh cranberry sauce.

Unfiltered and unfined, it’s the type of wine that’s right up my alley.  Beautifully elegant – delicious and delicate – it boasts absolutely phenomenal colour.  Their marketing is also spot on – complete with a clever play on their surname, combined with the genetic coding of whatever grape is in the bottle.

You can buy these wines at the winery itself, or at a few select stores in the Okanagan, Vancouver, and Victoria.  Code’s production is tiny (only about 600 cases annually), and only 22 cases of this Pinot Noir Clone 777 were produced.  If you are lucky to find a bottle (or receive one as I did), enjoy it! DSC_7472

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