Vermentinu, Natiu, Domaine Mlle. Devichi, AOP Patrimonio, Barbaggio, Corsica, France, 13% abv.,

D445F0A0-A953-4A7C-8322-96D39B4C108609A0CCC7-C6C1-4024-81E9-6AC91778D7FAWhen we were deciding where to go on our European adventure, I pushed hard for Corsica.  I’d wanted to go there ever since taking the WSET Diploma ‘Light Wines of the World’ course.

I set to it, started researching well-known wineries, and sent out feelers for tastings to several.  Not one responded – except the very gracious Marie-Françoise of Domaine Mlle. Devichi.  I had read about her in a Decanter articleE3A2D393-10F7-4262-BCD8-13CCCE693A47 about the renaissance of Corsican wines.

Marie-Françoise is the 6th generation of her family (since 1734) and first woman to run this 42 ha Domaine which grows Vermentinu (for the whites) and Niellicciu (for the reds) vines.  She also makes dessert wines with Muscat à Petit Grains from their family vineyards in Cap Corse AOP.

Marie-Françoise is experimenting with biodynamics and other sustainable growing methods, and her winery proudly advertises their allegiance to and support for the LGBTQ2+ community.

The day we arrived,EFA626C9-0EDA-4AAF-8609-A000F3FF9A69 Anaïs guided me through an extensive tasting starting with a dry and pretty pétillant called Liberta, and ending with the 16% Mlle. D Muscat à Petit Grains digestif.  A 15% Corsican Orange Liqueur was also featured – all tangerine pith and simply delicious.

There were two whites, a rosé and two reds in addition – all of which were beautifully made – 74C37527-D762-4B70-B599-C3A409D0A987 light, 13.5% abv, clean and no reduction to speak of.  Hand harvesting and careful pressing is their hallmark, and it shows in the quality of the wines.

DSC_0311I did come away with a bottle of the Natiu.  Made of 100% Vermentinu with a salinity and minerality that cushions the lemon verbena, nettle, honeysuckle and white peach notes, it is delicate, but also solidly constructed.  This wine is perfect on its own, or with salads, seafood or pasta.

If you can make it to Corsica, don’t leave Patrimonio and its rolling hills, eucalyptus and nut trees, and wild herb fields without a visit to see this Domaine and spend some time with Marie-Françoise Devichi.

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Bacca Nera/Red Blend, Scappatello, Cantina Diubaldo, Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC, Abruzzo, Italy, 13% abv., 2022, US$17

Azienda Agricola Diubaldo is located near Teramo, Abruzzo, Italy – just north of where we travelled in August 2022, and to the east of the Grand Sasso d’Italia, aka the Apennines (right). DSC_6712

IMG_1993They produce some pretty awesome certified organic wines from their 15 hectares which, if you can get a hold of them, will captivate you with their fresh and clean aromas and flavours.

This rosé is gorgeous and ballsy.  Make no mistake; this is not your poolside sipper.  There is nothing flimsy or weak about it.

Strong red cherry, tart strawberry and pomegranate rest on soft tannins and a solid structural base of green leaf, mint and watermelon rind.  It hits hard and pretty.

If you are holding any, let it warm slightly when you serve it to fully appreciate all its nuance.  Amazing.

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Chorus Cuvée Rouge, Brendel, Napa Valley AVA, California, 2021, 13% abv., US$35

IMG_3986IMG_3989What a refreshingly gorgeous red wine this is – the Chorus Cuvée is a Napa Valley field blend co-ferment of 32% Tempranillo, 26% Touriga Nacional, 22% Tinta Cão, 12% Tinta Madeira, and 8% Trousseau.

It’s a translucent beauty offering aromas and flavours of ripe strawberry, cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, cinnamon, and light tobacco.  IMG_1974

Biodynamic from Brendel Wines, I tasted it there in Napa City a year ago in 2023 while there helping with a harvest and crush at another winery, and brought this lovely bottle back home over the border.  At the time, it was such a IMG_3988relief to find something unique and delicious that was NOT a Cab Sav.

We enjoyed it with roast beef off the BBQ, fresh corn on the cob, and summer salads.

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Riesling, Tantalus, Okanagan Valley VQA, British Columbia, 13% abv, 2014

E317D0AE-656D-4C29-9ACF-DC5C90EACC05A few weeks ago my sister was over and we were commiserating. I needed to pull out a good wine to bring our spirits back.

This 2014 Riesling from Tantalus more than fit the bill. I bought it a decade ago and laid it down – the result? To-die-for ripe Cosmic Crisp apple, peaking Bartlett pear, clover honey, quince jam, and composted yellow plum on both the nose and palate.

The lightest whiff of gasoline hovers over the glass. Super acidity and beautiful fruit has helped this wine blossom into the beauty it has become. The medium plus body is almost unctuous. 70D1099F-3F0C-4520-901C-D02DE293B0D9

What a delicious charmer made by David Paterson.  If you have any laid down, enjoy it now as it’s drinking gorgeously. The artwork on the bottle is just as fabulous as the wine.

Posted in British Columbia, OTHER, Riesling, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Pinot Noir, Les Épenotes, Premier Cru, Maison Evenstad, Beaune, Burgundy, France, 13.5% abv., US$110

IMG_9012One of the tasting experiences during my day in Burgundy was at Domaine du Château de la Crée in very tiny Santenay.  The Château dates back to 1431, and its main building was burned down during the French Revolution. Santenay is located at the very southern tip of the Côte d’Or.  

The IMG_9015Château was purchased in 2015 by Grace and Ken Evenstad, owners of Domaine Serene in Willamette Valley, Oregon – which I’d been to (follow this link to my previous post). So, when I realized Hautes Côtes was going to take me here for a Burgundian tasting, I really did feel that my wine life was coming full circle.  

IMG_9025IMG_9024We started with two beautiful 2020 Chardonnays from Santenay (a Beaurepaire Premier Cru and a Les Terrasses de la Crée), but the 2018 Maranges was hard to argue with – fresh lemon, white flowers, acacia, great acidity and 12 months in oak.

The Pinots followed with a 2015 En Goty, Maranges and Mason Evenstad’s Aloxe-Corton 2019, but the 2018 LesDSC_0194 Épenotes, Beaune, Premier Cru was outstanding – earthy chlorophyll and mint with rose petal, raspberry, persimmon and violet, touched by green leaf.  Beautifully balanced with chalky tannins, this wine will live for a long time.  

Sleepy Santenay was a sweet backdrop to this experience.  I highly recommend a tasting here if you are in the region and looking for quality wine from organic andDSC_0190 biodynamic vineyards.  

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Peated Single Malt Whisky, Distillery Smoked – Sugar Kelp Infused Peat, Portuguese Red Wine Barrique, Macaloney’s Island Distillery, The Peat Project, Single Cask Series, Saanich, BC, Canada, 46% abv., C$109.99

DSC_0251It’s rare to taste and cover a world-first in whisky innovation – but recently, I attended the launch of a Peated Single Malt Whisky smoked with sugar kelp-infused local peat which was just that. 

Macaloney’s Island Distillery has created a very Canadian west coast take on peated whisky and in the process, won a World Whiskies Award for ‘new make and young spirit.’DSC_0277

This whisky is the culmination of a unique collaboration between Victoria BC’s Macaloney’s and Sidney-based Cascadia Seaweed. The seaweed or sugar kelp, is grown sustainably at 8 different places around Vancouver Island – with 7 different First Nations involved in the farms.  DSC_0267

Seaweed has long been used to fertilize peat bogs, but never infused with peat smoke as part of the process.  The mash created is then distilled repeatedly at a slower rate than most distilleries follow to create this award winning seaweed peated “clearach”, or clear spirit of 63% abv. 

On the nose and palate, the clearach is surprisingly drinkable.  To be sure, 63% abv is mighty hot, but it is sweet and fruity with some burning heather – actually rather refined and elegant with a touch of salt and viscous legs.  

DSC_0258The 3 year old 46% abv whisky with which the seaweed-peated clear spirit was made is outstanding. The nose and palate echo each other with Werther’s butterscotch candy and crème brûlée, sweet pipe tobacco, mandarin oil, dark chocolate and hazelnut.  There is no colour added to this masterpiece – it comes from the charred Portuguese red wine barriques. 

Juicy and mouthwatering, with the right amount of peat and a residual sweetness owed to the seaweed, it boasts a long and luscious finish topped with a little kosher salt, reminiscent of a walk on a west coast beach at low tide.  

DSC_0255It’s absolutely extraordinary to have such a world-class distillery creating award winning spirits in my own backyard. 

There’s a limited run of this whisky – it’s available for export to 13 different countries from theDSC_0276 Macaloney’s website, or at the distillery itself if you live locally.  If you do, take the time to enjoy a flight of whisky or beer (they make that too), and enjoy a tour of their facility. 

 

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A ‘No Spit’ Bucket List Day in Burgundy’s Côte D’Or with Hautes Côtes 

DSC_0201When we started planning a trip anchored to the 2024 Monaco Grand Prix, I knew I also needed to plan a stop just up the road in Burgundy.

Now, Burgundy is a hallowed wine region, and one which demands muchDSC_0219 more than a one day visit, but that’s all the time I had.  So, I put the word out to my wine world friends and colleagues, and lo and behold, I got some great suggestions for a plan of attack.

I booked a bespoke day tour of the Côte D’Or (historically the moIMG_8999st important regions of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune together) with 32DAA50C-4E68-463A-82A5-8E49D40530EEIMG_9004Hautes Côtes, a small company with some powerful connections that plans art and wine experiences of the highest calibre. I spoke with my guide, Pierre Denis, prior to leaving Canada, and toured the 60 km long Route des Grands Crus with him from Dijon to Santenay and back.

89FF542E-9930-4FE9-AD93-666745591753A16C7A7B-8E11-4766-B244-BF50B0AB12ABThe day included visits to some of the most mythical vineyard plots from the Côte de Nuits – such as La Romanée Conti, Le Musigny, and Le Clos de Vougeot. I also feasted on pigeon at Ma Cuisine in Beaune, where the owner suggested a half bottle of Domaine Rollin’s 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses – fun as Pierre had worked that harvest there.

Two superb tastings were also part of the day – one at the historic Domaine Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, and the other in the tiny village of Santenay at Le Domaine du DSC_0214Château de la Crée.  Ironically, I had visited both their Willamette Valley sister wineries, so it was as if my wine life was coming full circle.

I’ve had some incredible wine experiences, but this one may be the most magnificent one to date.  I only had a day, but I fulfilled a ‘no spit’ bucket list item in great style.IMG_9069DSC_0212

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Aleatico + Nielluciu, Le Rappu, Clos Paoli, AOP Coteaux du Cap Corse, Morsiglia, Cap Corse, Corsica, France, NV, 15% abv., 16 €

05E34A36-7659-4D4B-9E32-44EF238F9B33Ever since I studied the wines of Corsica during the WSET Diploma Wines of the World course, I have wanted to visit the island, birthplace of Napoleon, and see it for myself.
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We made a trip in June 2024 and couldn’t believe its unparalleled beauty.  The Cap Corse, a bump-like peninsula on the northern tip, is truly spectacular.  This is where we met Dominique Lappi at his family’s petite winery in Morsiglia on Cap Corse’s rugged northwest shore.

F566E587-7498-4A32-8E96-FC1AE75A8FCAClos Paoli, named for his mother’s side of the family, only produces about 8,000 bottles a year on their 15 hectares, and all are made from native Corsican varietals and in traditional ways.  Le Blanc is 100% Vermentinu – fresh, fruity, dried flowers and mineral, Le Rosé, a lovely blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Nielluciu, and Le Rouge, the opposite blend of the same grapes.  All sport a light 12.5% abv which makes them super approachable and wonderfully refreshing.

Luckily for me, Dominique spoke perfect English.  He introduced me to their Cap Corse specialty, Le Rappu.  This stunning fortified wine is produced by drying the grapes on the DSC_0254slate in the fields and then pressing them to make wine in the tinazzi tradition – large, open wooden tubs.  The wine is later fortified and then aged in oak barrels for 10 years.

The resulting wine is extraordinary – remarkably light with a8B292FC8-FF0A-4FE6-B89C-C7F99F899497 translucent garnet/ruby colour, and a nose full of sweet pipe tobacco, just-turned raspberry, deep red plum and prune, light cassis, fig, date, mocha and hazelnut.  With its fresh acidity and light tannins, this treat is delightfully quaffable, and with no cloying sweetness.  I bought a bottle and enjoyed some every night for a week before flying home.

Perfect with Gorgonzola, dark chocolate, chocolate mousse or tiramisu, it wasIMG_1010 also soulmate to a Corsican lamb pie with chestnut purée we enjoyed.

I really wish I could have bought many bottles of this as well as their Le Myrte, digestif and their Limoncello for which Dominique said he peeled many of their estate grown lemons.  The Limoncello was unlike any I’d ever had before – a pure lemon curd bomb with awesome acidity.  I’ve been ruined for all future Limoncellos.

If you happen to find yourself on Corsica, you must drop by their stone tasting 2BF1A7DE-D762-46A8-BD97-9557A73D4FFEshed and meet with Dominique for a tasting.  Tell him I sent you!  While I was obsessing over the wine, my husband was drooling over a genuine Corsican ‘barn find’ – a completely original and intact 1930 Donnet Six – hiding in the back of the tasting room.

IMG_6631You could also take part in their ‘dinner in the vineyard’ offer.  And make sure you’re shipping a bag home so you can bring back multiple DSC_0251bottles.  It’s more than worth the effort.IMG_6635

Posted in aleatico, Corsica, FORTIFIED WINE, France, Le Rappu, OTHER, RED | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Douro Branco, Luis Seabra Vinhos, Xisto Ilimitado, Portugal, 2021, 12% abv., C$42

This wine comes from the northern Portuguese vineyards of Luis Seabra and is made from a field blend of Rabigato, Códega, Gouveio, Vioshino and other indigenous varietals.  The vines range between 30-60 years old, and are grown at 400-500m.

C0518049-7D15-4017-A7BE-81E015A8C3D2After picking, the fruit is pressed as a field blend and left to co-ferment with native yeasts.  The wine ages 7 months in French oak but there’s no MLF or battonage, so the wine produced has super minerality and fruity clarity.

Lemon colour on the eyes, the nose shows verbena, sparkly minerality, seagrass, lemon balm and high acidity.

The palate is a delicious combination of more lemon verbena, lemon balm and lemongrass, light oak, white peach and refreshing salinity.

We drank (nay, guzzled) this with roast pork and veggies, and toasted the gift givers, Moni and DJ who brought it to me from a specialty store in Bend, Oregon.  For any intrepid drinkers out there, it’s available in BC at some private wineshops and I recommend it highly.

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Tempranillo, Vina Bosconia, Lopez de Heredia, Rioja DOCa., Spain, 2009, 13.5% abv. US$50

I’m going to be dreaming about having enjoyed this bottle for a while yet.  It’s a classic Riojan red blend from benchmark winery, Lopez de Heredia – one of my absolute favourite houses.

A stunning blend of Tempranillo (80) with Garnacha (15), and Mazuelo/Graciano 29C85A44-7635-43A6-BC5E-4A6810C4A231(5), the Bosconia is a translucent ruby turning ever-so-lightly to garnet – which in and of itself is remarkable for a 15 year old wine.  The nose shows ripe strawberry with clove, cinnamon, sandalwood and green hay, while the fresh, clean palate echoes it with addition of sour cherry, rose petal and light leather belt.  The finish is beautifully long on this delicious wine which has a long life ahead of it.  If you have some, it will go for a good decade more.

One day, I will get there in person. But, until I make my pilgrimage to Rioja, I will continue to enjoy these bottles with friends.  Thanks Frank and Suzanne for making the veal Marsala that accommodated this wine so phenomenally.

Posted in Graciano, Grenache / Garnacha, Mazuelo, OTHER, RED, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment