La Cave d’Augustin Florent, Tannat, Madiran AOC, Southwest France, 2012, 13.5% abv.

This wine surprised me.  Being from Madiran AOC (which is located in South West France in the Pyrénées Mountains on the border with Spain) I anticipated it would be very concentrated and tannic. Madiran

Wines from Madiran AOC may only be red (there’s a sweet and dry white AOC too which covers the same area of production, but they’re produced under a different name – Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh.  Try saying that 10x in a row.  Was anyone in the marketing department thinking?).

Ah, but I digress… About 60% of a Madiran blend is supposed to be Tannat and it’s supported by Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Fer Servadou (aka Braucol).  Some of the wines are actually 100% Tannat though, despite the rule.  Tannat, you may know, is also the main grape of Uruguayan wines, having been transported there by French immigrants from this region.

A beautiful shade of medium ruby, this wine has medium plus aromas of deep, black fruit with a little nutmeg.

On the palate, it’s dry with surprising medium plus acidity and ripe but strained tannins.  The body is equally surprising in that it’s slender; not what I’d anticipated.  Flavours show deep cassis and black plum with black and raspberry, nutmeg and a little dash of sage.

The finish is light and the alcohol a little hot, but overall this has some nice flavour and aroma notes.  It’s tasty, but don’t age it – enjoy with charcuterie.

WSET Good

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Domaine Huet, Clos du Bourg, Moelleux, Première Trie, Vouvray AC, Loire, France, 2002, 12.5% abv, US$ 45 (half bottle)

Chenin Blanc is one of the most versatile grapes.  This wine is a botrytised, sweet version from Domaine Huet located in Vouvray, Loire Valley, France.

If you actually knew what these grapes look like when picked, you may not want to try the wine.  In addition to being botrytised, this is a first pass (trie) wine – meaning the grapes, affected by botrytis (aka noble rot), were hand-selected on the first pass through the biodynamically farmed Clos du Bourg vineyard.

clos du bourgSome drinkers are emphatically opposed to wines like this (without tasting or reading about them) because they’re sweet.  That’s just a shame though; this is a benchmark wine of the world – and something worth trying.  Paired appropriately, it will blow your mind.

The sheer amount of time and effort that goes into the making a wine like this, should alone convince you to at least try it.  They are among the best wine deals on the planet.  These grapes are picked individually – one by one – at exactly the right moment.  The time taken, the effort made…the work involved is enormous.

Deep gold with surprisingly delicate legs, the Clos du Bourg 2002 has sweetly honeyed and barnyard aromas of straw, game and ripe red apples.  It couldn’t possibly be anything other than a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc with that nose.

The palate is fully sweet with contrasting high acidity.  Flavours show quince, more sweet, red apple, game and honeyed biscuit.  There’s a long finish to compliment it.  I had hoped for sharper and more distinct flavours, but that said, it’s not cloying and is balanced, complex and layered.

We paired this WSET Very Good Plus wine with an apple pie and castellano cheese, which augmented it gorgeously.

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Domaine de Ferrand, Philippe Bravay Vignobles, Châteauneuf du Pape, Orange, France, 2012, 15% abv, bottle #03458, US$54

Ferrand cdpHere’s a GSM from 5 ha of vines located in the region of La Gardiole and Cabrières near Orange, in the northern part of Châteauneuf du Pape.  The recipe on this wine is 95% Grenache with 2% Syrah, 2% Mourvèdre and a dash of white Bourboulenc.

The vines, planted between 1910-1930, are grown on galet soils (little round, brown rocks), sand, clay and limestone.  The rocks provide great drainage and also retain the day’s heat and re-radiate it to the vines during cool evenings.

Philippe Bravay took over this vineyard from his father Charles in 1995 and that’s when the wines started being branded with the Ferrand name.  Interestingly, absolutely no oak is harmed during the making of his wines – during either fermentation or ageing.  He makes them as naturally as possible with little intervention.

A pretty, translucent ruby red with delicate legs, this wine took some time to open up.  The nose is a little hot with the alcohol (at 15% abv), but shows red fruit, field berry and sour cherry, eventually evolving to dried roses and garrigue.

The palate is dry with medium acidity and the tannins are soft and not prominent.  Flavours of deep rosemary and thyme with field berry gave way to bacon fat, leather glove and a sumptuous finish.

I fear we opened this too early, although it was of course, enjoyable and complimented our dinner beautifully.  WSET Very Good plus; cellar this graceful wine for 5-7 more.

We enjoyed it with a gorgeous spring Table 1006 meal of organic steaks, fingerling potatoes baked in duck fat, truffle salt and tossed with parsley, fresh greens and grilled Fraser Valley asparagus.

 

 

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Pergolo, Prosecco DOC, Treviso, Valdobbiadene, Italy, NV, 11% abv, C$13

Pergolo proseccoBreakfast wine is the best stuff.  Here’s a version that is so reasonably priced, you can buy two!

Bottled at Mionetto at nelle Cantine di Crocetta del Montello in north eastern Italy, this is a light, bubbly Prosecco made from the white Glera grape.

Prosecco is extremely popular – so much so that sales increased in Canada by 266% between 2006-2010.  And there are literally oceans of the stuff still being produced for markets around the world.

It’s sparkling wine that is not usually of the highest quality, but the price is right and it almost always works as an easy accompaniment to brunch or evening appetizers.

The colour of palest lemon with a light mousse, the Pergolo has an almost neutral nose of soft citrus and melon.  It is dry but offers a definite fruity sweetness with average acidity and light alcohol.  The moderate flavours include lemon mousse and meringue with honeydew melon, green pear, with a bitter almond and melon rind finish.

WSET Good.  A simple, but tasty and light drink – enjoy now; don’t age.

Picture credit: Mike Woods Photography

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Ca’ Di Pian, Barbera d’Asti, La Spinetta, Catagnole Lanze DOCG, Italia, 2010, 14% abv.

Made from the Barbera grape in Piedmonte, northwestern Italy, this is a wine showing deep garnet with a nose of purple Italian plum, black fruit, herb and star anise.ca di pian

The palate is dry with softly ripe, velvety tannins, slightly high alcohol and intense flavours of Damson, liquorice and soy sauce with fig, brandied cherries and rosemary.  There is a salinity about it emphasizing its strong minerality.

With its medium finish but slightly high alcohol, this is a WSET Very Good wine.  The second day, it was even better than the first time around.  Don’t be afraid to have leftovers.

Purchased by Charlotte, it was a beautiful accompaniment to Winesnob’s dry ribs and porcini mushroom laced risotto.

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The Hatch, Brut Rosé, Okanagan, BC, 12.6% abv, NV, C$28

I’m always on the search for a tasty Rosé.rose 1

Here is one from a new winery with a plethora of options made from grapes sources from all parts of the Okanagan and a tasting room located in West Kelowna.  We visited it briefly on a trip there in August 2015.

The Hatch has invested a lot in their very cool, hipster-esque tasting room and the original artwork sported on the bottles is top notch impressive.  They were backed-up busy the day we visited, but did take the time to offer us a personal, albeit quick, tasting.  Still, it was nice to stand at their bar tables and the atmosphere, while noisy, was cheerful.

Sadly, the contents of their Brut Rosé is less so.  The colour of pretty, pale watermelon juice, this bubble has an assertive but short-lived mousse and a faint nose of more strawberry backed by bitter almond.  Neither the bottle nor their website offers any information about the grape(s) used.

The palate is dry and the alcohol obvious with flavours of summer berry, light jalapeno and some herb; a basic sparkling wine showing no complexity and a quick finish.  There’s absolutely no information about how it has been made on the winery’s website and I suspect the bicycle pump method for the bubbles.  I did email them for information, but after a week they hadn’t responded.rose 2

I bought this without having tasted it – I have more hope for the other bottles I brought home.  WSET Acceptable and overpriced for what it offers.  Not recommended for ageing.

The search for ‘my happy place’ Rosé continues.

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Aquavit, Linie, Norway, NV, 41.5% abv.

I admit it freely; I like the weird and unusual.aquavit

When it comes to spirits, this is a little off the beaten track.  Picked up in Amsterdam, it was carried carefully across several borders to its new home in Vancouver.  However, this is a spirit that was aged in old Sherry casks and driven by freighter over the equator and back before even being bottled.  So, it’s no slouch in the ‘international travel’ category.

Yes, that’s the hook Linie has for its prestige bottlings of Norwegian Aquavit – aged by travelling over the equator and back in old Sherry casks.  You can actually peer into the back of the bottle and see where your particular one travelled prior to owning it!

However, what is Aquavit exactly?

It hails from Scandanavia and in some countries it’s also referred to as Akvavit.  Essentially it’s distilled from either grain or potatoes and then infused with botanicals.  In this sense it can be thought of as being similar first to vodka but moreso to gin because of the infusion.  However, whereas gin must be focused primarily on juniper berries, Aquavit smells and tastes primarily of caraway or dill – along with dozens of other herbal and root-based goodies.

This version is a pale gold and distilled from potatoes with aromas of fennel, anise, citrus peel, pumpernickel and rye bread.  There is also some nutmeg and ginger, possibly from the time spent in those old Sherry casks which have also rounded out the corners very nicely.

The palate is warming and lightly creamy with intense herbs showing star anise, more fennel, cardamom, caraway and roots alongside orange oil.

A WSET Very Good spirit.  Perfect with your next course of pickled herring (’cause I know you eat that all the time), smoked cheddar or salmon.

 

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Church & State, Cabernet Franc, Coyote Bowl, Okanagan Valley, BC, 2010, 14.7% abv.

I had to double check the label!  On the first glass, I thought I was drinking a svelte Syrah from BC’s Okanagan Valley.  Nope – Cabernet Franc.

Deep garnet in colour, this wine offers classic Cab Franc aromas of pine needle, cranberry and crunchy red fruit with some blackcurrant.Church + State cab fr

But the palate is all Syrah – dry with medium acidity and body, the tannins are ripe and only lightly grippy.  Flavours are intense and include ripe red fruit – plum, field berry, pomegranate – tobacco leaf, leather strap and clove with cinnamon stick.

The finish is a little short and alcohol is high causing some imbalance and headache on this WSET Good wine.

Drink now; do not hold.

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Chardonnay, Louis Jadot, Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, Mâconnais, France, 13% abv.

Pouilly-Fuissé is located in Burgundy’s Mâconnais subregion and Chardonnay is its only grape.  Its wines are usually good deals and cheaper than those from the north of Burgundy.  There, a good tip for when all those wines are swimming in front of your eyes at the liquor store and you’re feeling both pressure and confusion.

There are no premier cru vineyards in Mâconnais though – and this is because no one applied for them to be created when the AOC was founded in 1936.  Vineyard owners were likely too distracted by the grind of the mid-war years.pouilly fuisse

This wine is a medium lemon with light legs.  The nose has average intensity with aromas of pineapple, yellow Golden Delicious apple, green pear, caramel and wood from the 6 months it spent in French oak barrels.

The palate is dry with medium acidity, average alcohol and flavours of yellow apples, Asian pear, quince, crushed rock, toffee and oak.  The wood treatment is a little heavy and as the wine warms, becomes unbalanced.

That said, when nicely chilled, it went absolutely superbly with our juicy chicken roasted in Provençal marinade, Saltspring Island greens and baked potatoes with butter and sour cream.

WSET Good plus

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Church & State, Coyote Bowl Series, Malbec, Okanagan Valley, BC, 2011, 14.5% abv.

Church + State MalbecPurchased in September 2014 at the winery, we opened this on Saltspring Island with charcuterie and BBQ’d sausages in summer 2015.

Opaque purple and very young with intense aromas of ripe, purple plum, black cherry, burnished leather and fresh pine, the Coyote Bowl is dry on the palate.

Strong flavours of ripe, Bing cherry, damson plum, fresh rosemary and thyme with black pepper dominate.  Sweet vanilla augments the fresh and fruity character with a slight imbalance with the high alcohol.

This WSET Good wine is for the next time you beat your chest and yell out ‘BBQ’!

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