Wayne Gretzky Estates, No 99, Cabernet Merlot, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Ontario, Canada, 2013, 12.5% abv, $15.95

I’d forgotten how cold Ottawa is in the winter time.  Chilly.  Icy.  Brrrr.

But alcohol is warming, so the first thing I did after I made it to my hotel was make a beeline for the closest wine store.  Of course, it’s a little different in Ontario and I ended up at a small LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) in the local Rideau Centre.  There was some fellow at the front of the store getting arrested for shoplifting a bottle of Polar Ice vodka and it was slim pickings as far as interesting or unique bottles were concerned.

Given this scenario, I figured my goal should be to find the most premium tasting bottle I could find that isn’t available in BC.  It turned out the best I could do was $15.95 without resorting to icewine.  wayne

Let’s just say the Rideau Centre LCBO is not exactly carrying a lot of intriguing product from anywhere – let alone the province itself.  I went to another private wine store and the largest LCBO in downtown Ottawa later on the weekend and they were equally uninspiring for the most part.

With the few options I had, I picked up this bottle from Wayne Gretzky Estates because I know purchasing his wines means contributions go to charities that benefit children in Ontario.  WG Estates also produces wines in the Okanagan (BC) and in Sonoma, California, so while technically I can purchase the brand here, I can’t get this Cab-Merlot blend from Niagara Peninsula VQA.

This wine has a deep ruby colour and light legs with a medium intense nose of all the things you’d expect to find in a Cabernet-Merlot blend such as blackberries, blueberries, damson plum, baking spice and vanilla.  There’s no green pepper though to offer that classic cab sav greenness.

The palate is not completely dry although it’s advertised as such; it’s not off dry either, but there is definitely residual sugar in it.  The tannins are supple and ripe with little grip and it has a light body with only medium acidity.  The medium intense flavours include more plum, black and blue fruit, some tobacco leaf, black pepper, vanilla and clove with nutmeg.  The finish recedes quickly.

This is a WSET ‘Good’ wine; young, simple, it’s clean and only a little out of balance – doing its thing unremarkably, but inoffensively as well.  It’s not a star like its namesake, but the way the proceeds are spent on deserving kids does make purchasing it a little easier.
Drink now, don’t hold.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, Merlot, Ontario, RED | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Canoe Ridge, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington, 2010, 13.9% abv, US $20

Canoe RidgeI’m sure you’ve either had Canoe Ridge before or seen it on a shelf or restaurant menu.

Canoe Ridge is one of Washington State’s largest wineries and is located in Horse Heaven Hills AVA, just north of the moderating influence of the Columbia River with Walla Walla AVA to the east.

Canoe Ridge is owned by Chateau Ste. Michelle which produces about 2 million (yes, million!) bottles of wine annually.  It has two prominent ventures – one with Piero Antinori of Tuscany (Col Solare) and the other with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen called Eroica – and offers many options ranging from entry level to exclusive single vineyard wines.

The Canoe Ridge vineyards are quite warm and because they’re in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains, they’re dry.  This is one of the reasons Cabernet Sauvignon does so well there.  It’s also very windy there, evident from the wind turbines that dot the landscape along the Columbia River gorge.  Along with the warmth, the dry winds reduce the chance of rot and fungal disease that could hurt the grapes.

Some of the very best red American wines are produced from grapes grown in Horse Heaven Hills (and closeby Red Mountain AVA) including, Quilceda Creek’s 100 Parker Point examples from 2002 and 2003.

The Canoe Ridge brand is not playing in that league, but this is certainly a reasonable deal considering the price point.

The wine is clear and bright, opaque ruby moving toward garnet with deep legs.  There are medium plus intense aromas of blackberry, mulberry and a little raisin with cinnamon and light licorice along with a strong element of minerality.  Initially, there was a great deal of alcohol, but it did blow off after swirling and given some time.

The palate is dry with medium acidity, medium plus alcohol and medium ripe tannins with the lightest dust and grain.  The medium plus flavours include more of the promise of the nose – mulberry, black plum and blackberry with cinnamon spice and cedar.  There’s no green or black pepper or vine, but the finish is medium plus.

It’s not printed on the bottle, but while 80% is Cabernet Sauvignon, there is also 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 1% Cab Franc in this blend.

A balanced wine with fruit that is slightly overripe, but flavourful.
Drink this WSET ‘Good’ wine now; not meant for further ageing.

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, Malbec, Merlot, RED, Washington State | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Gillmore, Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vines, Loncomilla Valley, Chile, 2009, 14.9% abv, C$16

If all Cabernet Sauvignon tasted like this, I would drink it every day, all day long and twice a day on Thursdays.gillmore

And here is a double whammy – if you visit the Gillmore website, they play my favourite piece of music – the prelude from Bach’s Cello Suite No. 1.  And get ready for the triple play – manually farmed with no irrigation.  How can one lose?

Estate bottled from 60 year old vines located 50 km from the Pacific Ocean, this wine was cradled back to Vancouver by Costa and Jody and kindly shared with – me!  Oh lucky day.  If you can find any of this, buy and drink it.

Deep ruby with big legs and with a medium plus nose of beautiful perfume – crunchy pine needles, lashings of red fruit (strawberries, field berries, raspberries and pomegranate), cigar box spices, tobacco, cedar, cracked pepper and purple flowers.  We just inhaled this wine for about the first 20 minutes, it was that enchanting.

On the palate, dry with medium plus acidity and with tannins that had integrated since Costa had tried this wine for the first time in 2012 at the winery.  By all accounts, those had been face-burning.  These are integrated and round, but still medium plus ripe with some grip.  The wine is 14.9% abv, but not alcoholic.  The flavours have medium plus intensity and show red fruit, tobacco, cedar box and spices – black pepper with clove and nutmeg.  The finish is a lengthy medium plus.

WSET Very Very Good – delightfully fresh, floral, pine-scented, fruit – complex, balanced and integrated.  It tasted more like Cabernet Franc than Cabernet Sauvignon which may be why it was so appealing.  Top notch – a home run.

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Maysara, Pinot Noir, Delara, Momtazi Vineyard, McMinnville AVA, Oregon, US, 2006, 13.9% abv

maysaraSmall and family-owned? Check.  Belief in the importance of terroir? Check.  Biodynamic certified?  Check.  Humble, friendly and welcoming? Check, check, check.

When we visited this winery in 2013 because we found it mentioned in a Jancis Robinson footnote, Hanna Momtazi and her father Moe weren’t even aware they’d been mentioned in American Wine.  The property was a little difficult to find, even with the GPS, in among the rolling hills and hazelnut groves common to McMinnville.  But when we did…

This bottle came back across the border with us and waited until a dinner with wild salmon, salad and brown rice was on the menu.  We decanted it 30 minutes prior to devouring.

Clean and bright, medium garnet with deep legs, on the nose the wine has medium plus intense and developing aromas of cedar, deep damson plum, black cherry and blackberry with fresh, over-turned earth.  You know when you put a spade into the garden plot and …yup, just like that.

The palate is dry with medium plus acidity, medium plus alcohol and ripe, silky tannins.  The medium plus flavours show more plum, rosemary and sage, and deep dark fruit that is common to McMinnville Pinot Noirs – black cherry, persimmon and blackberry.  Earth and kid leather notes compliment the fruit and there’s some clove and nutmeg on the medium plus finish.

WSET Outstanding and with lots of life left yet.  If you are fortunate enough to still have a bottle, drink now or hold for up to 5 more years; the deep fruit and acidity will enable ageing.  Balanced, complex, layered and delicious.

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The Dalmore, 15 year old, Highland Single Malt Whisky, Scotland, 40% abv

Mmmm…Scotch.

Here we have The Dalmore – owned by Whyte & Mackay, which is in turn owned by India’s United Breweries (UB).  Did you know; India is the world’s largest market for whisky?  Most that is sold there consists of domestic products such as UB’s ‘Kingfisher’ whisky and not necessarily Scotch because high taxes make imports too expensive for most locals.

I’ll take the Dalmore though.  The iconic stag on its bottle is a hold over from its original owners – the Clan Mackenzie.  It’s on every bottle made at the distillery located north of Inverness and on the ‘Firth of Cromarty’.  I know – I had to look it up on a map too.

The Dalmore is pale amber with slender legs.  The nose has medium plus intense aromas of honey, orange zest, flower, vanilla and clove.  Having spent 15 years ageing in sherry casks, it’s a dapper, gorgeous drink.  The palate is dry and warming with medium body and medium plus flavours of more honey, cider spices (more vanilla and clove alongside ginger), dried flowers and a cognac-like dustiness.

The finish is delicious and medium plus in length.

WSET Very Good.

 

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Hennessy, Pure White, Cognac, France, 40% abv, C$70

Allen picked this bottle up in a Mexico duty free store and it’s not available in Canada or the US. Apparently it’s made exclusively for the Caribbean market where it’s enjoyed chilled from the freezer or mixed into cocktails. Who does that though? Do people really chill their cognac?

We were surprised it didn’t have a t-stop cork but instead has a twist top which is done so it’s freezer-friendly. It does make it a little hard to pour though when combined with the (albeit cool) apothecary style of bottle. And the ‘pure white’ is marketed as being special, but in reality all cognac is made from white grapes…so this is really not as special as they’d like you to think.

But lest you think we were disappointed, we weren’t at all. It’s a pale gold cognac with light and tiny legs. The nose is short-aged, medium plus intense with aromas of flowers, burnt rubber (in a good way) and honey. The palate is dry and it has warming alcohol and a light body with medium intense flavours of pot pourri, caramel, clover honey and a touch of bitterness.

Light, delicate and easy to drink, WSET Good. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

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Posted in France, SPIRITS, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

Adir Winery, Shiraz, Kerem Ben Zimra, Upper Galilee, Israel, 2011, 14% abv (0217/3,900), C$27 or 90 NIS

adirFess up, now.  Who hasn’t wondered at one point or another about turning water into wine.

Well, if you remember anything about Sunday School, you may recall that Galilee is where the story of the wedding of Cana is thought to have taken place – where Jesus purportedly turned water into wine.

These days, the winemakers find using grapes works much better.  There are three main parts to Galilee – Upper Galilee, Lower Galilee and the Golan Heights which produces some of the best wines and is an emerging ‘new world’ wine region (the irony is delicious – ‘new world’ for an area where wine has been made for thousands of years).

Lower Galilee is very small and concentrated near Mount Tabor with red soils similar to the terra rossa found in Australia’s Coonawarra.  In Upper Galilee though, the soil profiles vary from free-draining gravels to limestone to mineral-rich volcanic basalt.

Galilee is dotted with rocky outcroppings and a peak at Mount Meron of 1200m up near the border with Lebanon.  Even though this is a semi-desert area and is only at 33 degrees latitude, the elevation enables the grapes to retain acidity and there is adequate rainfall.  Without the elevation, it’s doubtful much quality wine would be produced in the region; it would just be too warm.  The vines at Adir grow at 870m.

This red wine is a clear medium ruby and has even legs.  The nose has a medium, youthful, intensity with aromas of red fruit – raspberry, boysenberry, red cherry, red plum, light clove and nutmeg.  The palate is dry with medium acidity, high alcohol and medium ripe tannins with little grip.  The flavours are medium – more red fruit – cherry, plum, raspberry – with light tobacco and leather glove with clove.  The finish on this WSET Good wine is medium.  Drink now – don’t hold.

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De Ponte Cellars, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2009, 14.1% abv

de ponte 2dp 5Friends, Americans, neighbours to the south, what are you going to drink with your Thanksgiving turkey?

Yes, you can drink red wine with this meal, you really can.  There are many options to choose from.  Pinot from Oregon’s Willamette Valley is perfectly positioned to partner with your holiday bird.

We visited De Ponte in 2013 on a hot August day intrigued by a recommendation from their neighbours at White Rose Winery (across the road) and Domaine Drouhin (located just up the hill).dp 4

We were greeted with a light palate cleansing white – their Melon de Bourgogne, a house specialty – and learned that their winemaker, Isabelle Dutarte, originally came to Dundee Hills from Paris to work at Domaine Drouhin.  They produce only about 2000 cases per year, so this is a fairly small enterprise.

dp 6The 2009 version is a medium garnet colour with lovely legs and medium plus intense aromas of youthful red fruit – raspberry, Byng cherry, cranberry and boysenberry – crushed cedar greens, minerality and clove.

In the glass, the wine is dry with medium plus acidity, ripe, silky tannins and high alcohol.  The medium plus intense flavours include more of the same red fruit as well as a hit of plum alongside a medium plus finish.

This wine is delicious (WSET Very Good) and aside from the high alcohol, it’s balanced and has lovely complex layers of fruit, minerality, wood, spice and acidity.

So, go Pinot – and let me know how it pairs with your cranberry sauce and stuffing.

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Carpe Diem, Melon de Bourgogne, Domaine de l’Ecu, Nantais, Loire, Vin de France, 12% abv, 2012

carpe 8 I visited Domaine de l’Ecu in June 2014 about a week after writing the final Diploma exam.  I was still recovering from WSET trauma – but eager to meet renowned winemakers Guy Bossard and Fred Niger van Herck at this winery located southeast of Nantes on the easternmost fringes of France’s Loire Valley.carpe 4

Under Guy’s control since about 1972, Domaine de l’Ecu has been organic since 1975 and Demeter-certified (biodynamic) since 1988.  Together with other biodynamic leaders (including Nicholas Joly, Olivier Humbrecht and Stephane Tissot), they belong to the group ‘Renaissance des Appellations’ which sports the url ‘return-to-terroir’ and whose basic premise for winemakers is to employ ‘…actions which permit an Appellation to express itself.

carpe 6Now in semi-retirement, Guy has handed the reigns over to a charming and dynamic Fred who has proven to be a more-than-capable successor.  Eager to espouse the tenets of biodynamic and natural winemaking, Fred talked endlessly during the visit about being forced to de-classify this wine (and others) from the Appellation because of “bureaucratic protests” regarding ‘typicity’ of flavour, aroma and texture.  Thankfully he has a great sense of humour – which shows in their marketing too (ie: they have a wine called ‘Red Nez’).carpe 3

carpe 9This wine is all natural, unfined and unfiltered with no added sulfites.  It was fermented with indigenous yeast and vinified completely in clay amphorae for 15 months.  It’s hazy because of its natural status and is pale lemon with heavy legs. The nose is heavily mineral and herbal with notes of fennel and lemon balm with a great sweet black licorice aroma.  Dry with medium minus alcohol and average acidity, it has medium plus body with medium plus flavours of more fennel, green herbs and lemon grass with that really cool didn’t-expect-to-find-it licorice note.

carpe 2 carpe 1Unctuous and full, this wine is rich in the mouth with a long finish.  WSET Very Good – is drinking now but can be held for 5-7 years.  Consume with as much seafood as is humanly possible.

I had waited a while to open this – the WSET Diploma Survivors’ Group meeting was the perfect moment for sharing.

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Chardonnay, Charles Shaw, California, 2012, 12.5% abv, US$2.49

Let it be said I will try just about anything – at least once.chuck

When I saw the infamous bottles of Two Buck Chuck on the shelves at Trader Joe’s during a cross-border shopping trip, I admit I was terribly curious.  I stole over to the display, sneaked a couple into the shopping cart and prayed no one saw.  ‘Cause you know I should really care what random shoppers think of my wine purchasing choices.

Really though, when you taste wine, you need to know what all of it tastes like – not just the classics, but wines of all types and quality levels.

However, once I’d justified it to myself, it still took me a year to crack one open.  And that was risky in and of itself; these are not wines to lay down and age.

Just who is Charles Shaw and why are these wines so gosh darned cheap?  There are lots of internet sites circulating urban and other myths, but fact is he was a Stanford Business School grad who bought a winery in 1974 with his wife.  When they divorced in 1991, it was sold to the Bronco Wine Company which revived the label in 2002 and sold their cheap wines to Trader Joe’s.

There was a lot of ruckus in August 2014 when the harvesting and vinification methods used were exposed – along with mention of animal bits and such being included in the process.  But, the fact is more than 5 million cases of this brand are sold each year.  Someone is buying it.

Before tasting, my first impression was that the bottle is a strange green-brown and very light weight.  Although it’s still the standard 750ml size, it has a broader shoulder and is shorter than most.  This must be to cut down on the size and weight of a case so that shipping costs are reduced.  I was also surprised that the bottle had a cork and not a screw top.

The wine is a pale lemon colour with uneven legs, a slightly alcoholic nose and has aromas of lemon, vanilla and unripe, green plum.  The palate doesn’t deliver on that though; it’s shockingly off dry with about 15 g/L of residual sugar.  The acidity is medium and although the alcohol is only 12.5%, it’s boozy.  The flavours show lemon, heavy vanilla, more green fruit and a bitter almond along with a strong oaky flavour that speaks of wood chips or added essence; no barrels were used during the making of this wine.  The finish is shallow and lightly bitter.

WSET Acceptable – and unbalanced with the unripe fruit, overt alcohol and sugared flavour.  Headache inducing, I actually poured the bottle down the sink rather than risk the full on migraine.  An industrial, manipulated wine.  Don’t age; lay this down at your own risk.

That said, it’s an ultra bargoon.  I know of other wines that people pay $8-$12/bottle for that are no better than this, so if cost is your driving motivation, at least you’ll save money.

For me though, life is too short to drink shoddy wine.  Once was enough.

Posted in California, Chardonnay, WHITE | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments