Espero, Tulip Winery, Galilee, Israel, 2012, 14.5% abv

IMG_4128It pays to have relatives living on the opposite side of the earth when your interests include tasting and writing about wines made in esoteric styles, or in off-the-beaten-track wine countries, or from unusual grapes.

Here we have a sample from Israel’s Tulip Winery located in the hillside town of Kiryat Tiv’on – just southeast of the coast city of Haifa and west of Nazareth.

Now, Israel is not exactly a newbie at making wine or growing grapes.  I mean, they’ve been doing that there since biblical times. In the Old Testament’s book of Deuteronomy, grapes were listed as one of the seven ‘blessed species’ of fruit found in Israel (Deut. 8:8).

That said, Israeli wines have seen a quality revolution since the 1980s when great investments were made in winery equipment and vinification methods. Many products, including this one, meet kosher standards (although that appears to have been a very difficult designation for Tulip to have attained; they had to approach more than 20 Rabbis before being able to make the requirements work with their workforce).

The Tulip Winery certainly is unique.  Established in 2003 by the Itzhaki family, they employ members of the local community, many of whom live with developmental challenges.  Their goal is to help these employees integrate into the local workforce just as they would in mainstream society.  Kiryat Tiv’on means ‘Village of Hope‘ in Hebrew – and it’s home for about 200 locals with special needs, 30 of whom work at Tulip.

This wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc for perfume and high red fruit notes, Merlot for plush body and some Syrah for dark fruit and spice.

The wine is clear, bright, medium ruby and has full legs and has a nose of medium plus, youthful aromas of fresh red fruit (raspberry and cranberry) with some blackberry, cassis and Damson plum, vanilla and baking spice.  There is a minerality as well that holds over to the palate which is dry with medium plus alcohol.  The tannins are medium ripe with some grip and the acidity is average.  Add a little cherry to the palate along with some light leather and a medium plus finish and you have a WSET Good+ wine with structure and reasonable balance.  Drink now or hold for 1-3 more years.

Not only is Tulip Winery admirably altruistic, they make good wines too.
Well played, Elinor and Aryeh – well played.

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Israel, Merlot, RED, Shiraz / Syrah | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Viader, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, 2001, 14% abv, US$80

The first thing Doug said when I met him was ‘I only drink vodka and Californian wines’.  viader

Who says that?!  Then he sent me a bottle of Viader.  Now at least I understand the method of his madness – at least for the wines part.

Viader is one of those perched-on-beautiful-Howell-Mountain-east-of-St.-Helena-Napa-Valley-wineries that has had much success since its inception in 1986.  Producers of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes on hand-tended vines, they pride themselves on the get-up-and-get-them spirit of founder, Delia Viader.

Her children and their spouses remain an integral part of Viader’s operations to this day where the vines are planted as in the Douro – on an east-west axis up and down the hillside to maximize exposure to the sun and minimize soil erosion.viader 2The wines are unfined and unfiltered – music to my ears.  Formed of 55% Cab Sav for structure and black fruit, and red fruit and perfume from the Cab Franc 45%, they are grown at Viader’s volcanic, loam soil vineyard in Deer Park at an altitude of 396m.  The grapes have a yield of about 50 hl/ha.

The first challenge was with a dry cork that broke, but after a little TLC and some careful decanting to avoid any deposit and corky bits, we got down to business.  The wine is a clear and bright, medium intense garnet colour with a thick garnet rim and plentiful legs (the picture is a little off).

The nose is clean and developed with medium plus intense aromas of dried black and red fruit – blackberry, raspberry, plum, prune and raisin – with clove and nutmeg spices, marzipan and roasted nut.

The palate is dry with high, but completely unnoticeable, alcohol and silky tannins.  Acidity is still medium plus and the flavour profile has an evolved medium plus intensity with deep and rich dried black and red fruit – plum, prune, dried blackberry and black raspberry – leather strap, dried tobacco leaf, clove, nutmeg.  The finish is long.

This wine is delicious – perhaps slightly past it’s prime, but still dreamy at 13 years old.  Balanced, complex, elegant, structured but restrained, developed and with integrated tannins.  WSET Very Good+; drink now if you still have any.

Now I know why Doug treasures his Californian wines.

Posted in Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, California, RED | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Dominio IV, The Tango, Tempranillo, Columbia Gorge AVA, Three Sleeps Vineyard, Oregon, US, 2006, 13.8% abv, US$45

DIVO the TangoI’m so confused.

Most who know me would say that’s a permanent state (insert raised eyebrow here).  That aside, herein lies the source of my befuddlement.

This wine is made from Tempranillo, but the winery is based in Oregon’s McMinnville which is in the Yamhill wine region of the Willamette Valley.  Generally speaking this is not renowned Tempranillo terroir.

However, do a little digging and you learn the grapes are from the biodynamically farmed Three Sleeps Vineyard (love it) located northward in Mosier, Oregon – part of the Columbia Gorge AVA that straddles Washington and Oregon states.

This lies on the south side of the Columbia River just east of Portland.  Technically in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains and with an arid climate more akin to that of Yakima, there is much less rain here than in the Willamette, making it possible to grow Tempranillo in addition to Viognier and Syrah, among others.

The wine (The Tango) is an opaque garnet with with deep legs.  The nose is alcoholic but once that blew off, rich aromas of black and some dried fruit and vanilla spice were exposed.  The wine needed some decanting and opened more after 30 minutes to show deeper berry and leather.

The palate is dry with medium plus acidity and dusty ripe tannins with a good amount of grip yet for an 8 year old wine.  The alcohol is medium plus and although it was high at the outset, after aeration the wine had medium plus intense flavours of deep cassis, blackberry, prune, raisin, clove and nutmeg.  Leather, tobacco leaves and soy sauce rounded it out with a strong finish.

This was truly delicious (WSET ‘Very Good +’)- aged for 5 years prior to release and drinking beautifully with adequate acidity and dusty tannins carrying to the finish.

No longer confused by this point, we enjoyed the wine with our fresh pappadelle and bolognaise sauce, local heirloom tomatoes with fresh basil, buffalo mozzarella and a drizzle of Puligian olive oil, Serrano prosciutto and green Castelvetrano olives.

Allan bought this south of the border in Bellingham, WA at a tasting, but you can also drop into their beautiful winery in McMinnville or book at stay at their B&B located in Mosier at the Three Sleeps Vineyard.

Posted in Oregon, RED, Tempranillo | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Pinot Noir, Seven Terraces, Rossendale Winery, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2012, 13% abv, C$27

7 terracesWine is about people and community – it’s usually best enjoyed with others and it always has a story.

This Pinot Noir is no exception to that general rule.  From New Zealand’s South Island just 13 km south of Christchurch, it’s made from grapes grown at Rossendale Winery and supplied exclusively to Empson Wines Canada under the Seven Terraces label.

This is a family-owned vineyard that exports a Sauvignon Blanc in addition to the Pinot.  Winemaker Alan McCorkindale has twice been named New Zealand’s Winemaker of the Year and it’s clear as to why.

Clear and bright, the wine is a medium ruby with medium legs.  The nose shows medium plus aromas of raspberry, cranberries and salmon berries with holly, clove and mushroom.

The palate is dry with medium plus acidity and medium ripe tannin.  The alcohol is medium and the medium plus flavours show more raspberry and red plum with clove, vanilla and cedar frond with mushroom and forest floor.

Nicely balanced, this is a youthful wine that has some lovely complexity.  The finish is a medium plus and complemented our Thanksgiving turkey, cranberry with orange sauce, and brussel sprouts (think forest floor and leaves here).

Highly recommended for a turkey dinner – get it now!  It’s available in the UK under the ‘Rossendale’ label and in the US as ‘Cottesbrook’ at Total Wine and More.

Posted in New Zealand, Pinot Noir, RED | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Tyrconnell, Single Malt, Irish Whiskey, Andrew A Watt & Co., Ireland, 40% abv, C$60

tyrconnellThe Tyrconnell was a horse owned by the Watt family that was entered into the Irish national stakes in 1876 and won against enormous odds of 100-1.

Now the name is used for this Irish whiskey produced at the Cooley Distillery, Ireland’s last independent distillery currently owned by Beam-Suntory.  This is also where the Connemara, Greenore and Kilbeggan whiskeys are produced.  Tyrconnell is double-distilled and made from a base of malted barley.

Easy on the eyes, it’s a pretty, medium gold with tiny, quick legs (like the horse?).  The nose is clean, elegant and fruity with medium plus intense aromas of honey, yellow and red apples, baking spices, biscuit and malt.

The palate is dry with smooth alcohol.  It’s very silky and exceedingly easy to drink (don’t say I didn’t warn you).  There is some complexity with a medium plus finish that consists of orange and lemon rind, more honey, applesauce, biscuit, vanilla, clove and cinnamon.

This is a nicely balanced, silky smooth Irish whiskey with a fresh and classy profile and finish.  WSET ‘Very Good’ – drink now and often.

Posted in Ireland, OTHER, SPIRITS, Whiskey/Whisky | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Genium Cellers, Costers vi de Guarda, Poboleda, Priorat DOQ, Spain, 2005, 14.5% abv

One thing I have learned about winemakers and winery owners is that showing even a little interest in their work usually yields immensely positive results for anyone wanting to learn more.  Most are keen to share and you realize very quickly that asking seemingly innocent questions garners reams of information and feedback – and of course, leads to more questions.genium

Corresponding with the group of six families who joined forces in 2002 and combined their 15 ha of vineyards located throughout Priorat DOQ reminded me of this simple truth.

Jordi Ossó i Estivill is the Export Manager of Genium Celler and the ‘unique partner who speaks some English’.  Lucky guy – he pulled the short straw to answer my email about visiting Genium Celler in January 2015.  And talk about genial and helpful.

Genium Cellers is housed on the ground level of a stone home located in Poboleda, Priorat (northeastern Spain, south of Barcelona) where the Carthusian monks of the appropriately named, ‘Scala Dei’ (stairs to heaven) first set up shop in 1253.  DetallCartoixaEscalaDei0

‘Costers’ means slopes and their 7 ha of vineyards lie at a precipitous and precarious 45 degree angle meaning that everything must be done by hand.

The 2005 version (50% Cariñena, 30% Garnacha, 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah) comes from a combination of vines that are about 90 years old and produce only about 300 g of fruit per year, as well as some planted in the 1980s that produce around a kilogram per year.  It was aged in French oak for 14 months prior to bottling.

I think this about sums it up, “We keep taking care of the old vines on the slopes, in spite of the low output and high costs.”  Their attention to the viticulture and vinicultural processes is apparent – this wine earned a 91 from Stephen Tanzer in 2007 and a long ageing window.  I opened this bottle in October 2015.

Clear and bright, opaque garnet with a medium garnet rim and slow, fat legs, on the nose the wine is clean with medium plus intense aromas of black fruit – blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry – olive, tarragon, rosemary, old, wet earth, vanilla and crushed rock minerality.

We had to decant it heavily as it was very closed initially, but over the course of the evening, it showed more complex fruit and earthy mineral tones.

The palate is dry with medium plus alcohol that is not noticeable at all.  The tannins are medium plus, but ripe and softly dusty.  Acidity is medium plus and the medium plus flavour profile includes more blackberry, lots of black cherry, cassis as well as dark plum, star anise, rosemary, thyme and tarragon, black olives, soy sauce, wet, overturned earth and rocks.  A medium plus finish complemented the palate.

WSET ‘Very Good’, this wine is drinking beautifully right now.  We enjoyed it with rib eye steaks prepared simply with salt and pepper, grilled peppers and fresh baguette with extra virgin olive oil.  It’s well balanced and still has a lot of fruit and good acidity working in concert with the dusty tannins.

If you’re lucky enough to still have a bottle lying around, enjoy it now (decant about an hour prior to indulging) or within the next 1-2 years.

Hopefully in January 2015, I’ll be able to try other Genium Celler wines when we visit Jordi in Poboleda, Priorat.  Stay tuned…

Posted in Carignan, Grenache / Garnacha, Merlot, RED, Shiraz / Syrah, Spain | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Pinot Noir, Proposal Bloc, J Wrigley Vineyards, McMinnville AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA, 2012, 14% abv

Little brother Allan purchased this across the border in Bellingham, WA where the owner of the winerywrigley and winemaker, John Wrigley, was doing a tasting.

I have a soft spot for McMinnville having visited several wineries there in August, 2013.  There is some stunning countryside in that part of Oregon – rolling hills, hazelnut groves and Douglas Fir trees.  The International Pinot Noir Celebration is held there (at Linfield College) every year as well.

mcmimmThis, of course, bodes well for the reputation of the average Pinot Noir coming from the region and the J Wrigley example doesn’t disappoint.  This is delicious wine.

J Wrigley is a young winery established in 2006, vines planted in 2008 on 32 ha of land and with sedimentary and volcanic soils.  Located just a few kilometres south of McMinnville, they planted Pommard and Dijon clones 115 and 777 on south and east facing slopes that start at 64 and extend to 225m (where the whites are planted).  The vines are dry-farmed and they introduced their estate label in 2011.

The wine is day bright, medium ruby red with medium plus legs that seem high for a Pinot.  The nose has medium plus intensity of minerality – like sharp, wet rocks – along with lots of red fruit – Byng cherry and raspberry, pomegranate, red currant and red plum – with strong garrigue, cedar frond and licorice fern.

The palate is dry with medium plus ripe and dusty tannins with light grip, medium plus acidity, medium plus alcohol and medium body.  The medium plus intense flavours include more of the same ripe red fruit found on the nose with dried thyme, rosemary and lots of sage.  The cedar is evident and speaks to the time this wine from Pommard clone vines spent in barrel.  More anise and sword fern round it out.  The finish is medium plus.

Well balanced and not alcoholic despite the medium plus 14% abv, this is tasty wine with a very modern profile.  WSET ‘Very Good’ – drink now or keep for 3 years.

 

Posted in Oregon, OTHER, Pinot Noir, RED | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Sol Lucet, Koshu, Kurambon Wine, Japan, 2013, 11.5% abv C$24 (UK L13)

kosuhEight.  Yes, eight different Marks & Spencer’s stores.  That’s exactly how many stores Brian visited to find this bottle of wine for me during a recent business trip to London, England.

All praise be to Brian, best (and most persistent) husband ever.

I had read that some Koshu grape wines were available in England and since I am not planning any upcoming trips to Japan, this was my big chance to get some to drink here in Vancouver.  Clearly others read the same article and there was a run on the Sol Lucet.

This example is grown in Yamanashi prefecture – south of Tokyo and close to Mt. Fuji.  Mountainous, cool, wet and stunningly beautiful, I went to nearby Odawara in 2000 and travelled to this region to visit some onsen.  The Kurambon Winery makes whites out of the Koshu as well as Viognier and Chardonnay.  There are reds too from Tannat, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon to name a few.

Everywhere one reads about Koshu (which is a vinifera grape that has been grown for over 1,000 years in the Yamanashi region), it’s celebrated as being perfect with Japanese cuisine.  koshuFor this reason, I saved it for a sushi and sashimi dinner.

Palest lemon – almost water white – with light legs, the Koshu wine is clear and has a very light intensity with aromas of citrus – lemon and lime juice – and some grapefruit rind.

The back of the bottle describes the wine as having kabosu and yuzu flavours and aromas.  I’ve never had either of those, so had to look them up.  It seems to be true; kabosu is related to the yuzu and bitter orange and sometimes it’s used on top of fish dishes to reduce ‘fishiness’.  The yuzu apparently tastes like a combination of lemon, mandarin and grapefruit and is touted as the next ‘super fruit’.

The wine is dry with medium plus acidity, light alcohol and a medium minus body with light flavours of crisp asian pear.  Some honey emerged when it was paired with the ginger.  There was also ginger blossom, lemon and lime juice with lemongrass and a light touch of yellow grapefruit.  The finish is actually surprisingly long.

This wine was a wonderful pairing with sashimi, ginger and soy sauce with wasabi.  It was clean and delicate, tasty and refreshing and completely complimented the fish.  I had some the next evening with a basa fillet and salad and it disappeared.  So, be forewarned; enjoy with Japanese food or at least fish-based dishes with strong spice and soy sauce.  I think tempura may work well too.

A solid WSET “Good” wine.  There was a slight imbalance between the nose and the palate, but it was improved upon by the pairing with food and the lengthy finish.

Drink now, don’t age and definitely enjoy with your next Japanese meal.
Worth the trip to eight stores.

Posted in WHITE | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

Salentein Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, 2012, 14.5% abv

salenteinArgentina’s vineyards are some of the highest in the world – most start at about 600m and can go as high as 1,600m. Almost all of them are on the country’s western strip bordering the Andes mountains toward Chile and extend from the Tropic of Capricorn in the north to the 40th parallel in the south.

This wine is from the well-regarded Valle de Uco – south of Mendoza city and part of Mendoza province.

The combination of plentiful Andes water, elevation for acidity, alluvial and easy-to-drain soils, and 250+ sunny days per year produce a perfect storm of conditions for excellent, concentrated fruit that in turn make high quality wines.

Grown at an average of 1,200m (that’s the height of Grouse Mountain!), this wine from Bodegas Salentein and was brought back from a recent trip to the region by a friend.

It’s an atypical tasting Cabernet Sauvignon – no herbaceous green pepper or brooding black fruit here, save the blackcurrant.   In fact, it’s a little unusual to have a Cab Sav produced here – the region’s top four grapes are Semillon, Malbec, Bonarda and Barbera and formerly, the region produced mostly jug wines from Cereza and Criolla Grande.

This Cabernet Sauvignon is clear and bright, medium plus ruby with legs.  The nose is youthful, vibrant and clean with medium plus aromas of red fruit (raspberry, ripe strawberry and pomegranate), some blackcurrant, clove and sweet tobacco.

The palate is dry with medium plus dusty tannins, medium plus acidity, medium plus alcohol and medium flavours of tobacco, more red fruit (strawberry, pomegranate and raspberries), more blackcurrant and tobacco with a medium plus long finish.

Light and juicy, balanced and beautifully perfumed – WSET ‘Very Good’.  Drink now or hold 3-5 for further development.

Posted in Argentina, Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends, RED | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Villa Maria, Pinot Noir, Private Bin, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2011, C$22

This is wine.  It’s correct and it’s doing its thing, bvillamariaut there isn’t anything about it that makes you sit up and take notice, write poetry or break into song.

In fact, the most exciting thing about this wine is the story of its owner and founder.

Villa Maria is big business.  No, scratch that.  It’s absolutely enormous.  Established in 1961 by Croatian immigrant George Fistonich who left school at 15, it has become one of the wildest success stories in New Zealand wine and is still mostly family-owned.

Now ‘Sir’ George, Mr. Fistonich started out with one acre of land leased from his father and purchased grapes from other vineyards until he had enough of his own to produce estate grown wines.  Today the ‘Villa Group’ owns more than 900 acres extending from Auckland to Marlborough and produces wines at entry, mid, premium and single vineyard categories as well as a line of organic wines and one called ‘Research and Development’ or R+D.

The company has six wine makers (including an MW) and winemaking teams at its major plants, 11 country managers overseas and an additional 11 market and brand ambassadors located around the world.  Like I said, big business and a leader with regard to the international breakthrough of New Zealand wines in the 1970s.

This wine is one you’ll find everywhere – on restaurant menus and wine stores.  It’s an entry-level Pinot Noir from the Private Bin series, medium ruby with legs.  On the nose, it has medium plus aromas of cherries, pomegranate, earth, moss and wood, but is also quite alcoholic.

The palate is dry with medium body, medium and ripe tannins with no grain or grip.  There’s a medium acidity and medium plus flavours of more red fruit – cherry, plum and pomegranate – alongside  licorice fern, cedar and black pepper.  The finish is medium.

WSET ‘Good’ – ever-so-slightly watery with a bit of blowy alcohol, it nevertheless has solid and fruity flavours and aromas.

Drink now; not meant for ageing.

Posted in New Zealand, Pinot Noir, RED | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment