I panicked a little while searching for something to take to a friend’s for dinner. I found this 1998 sitting at the bottom of the wine cabinet. I had honestly forgotten it was there.

Initially, I was concerned I’d missed the drinking window. Then I realized I’d purposely hidden it. I’d wanted to let it age quietly until the moment we opened it.

This was a wine from some seriously old terroir.  But in 2006, the 11 ha that comprise La Tour du Pin Figeac were sold to Cheval Blanc. That makes this absolutely unique wine, from a spectacular vintage, a unicorn.  WineSearcher has gone so far as to assert that “The quality for the Merlot-dominant wines of St-Émilion and Pomerol was so high, they are recognized as not just being the standout wines of the vintage, but some of the finest expressions since 1990.”

It’s important to recognize Cheval Blanc would not have purchased the vineyards unless they were among Bordeaux’s most serious terroir. So that will give you some idea as to the outstanding quality of this bottle.

The wine was a deep and developed garnet, with a spectacularly complex nose and palate of blackberry, kirsch, cassis, mulberry and leather purse. The beautiful body showed exquisite, silky tannins. I realized this was a new experience; I had never tasted tannins like that before – soft, plush, and powdery.  The finish lingered.

Most of this wine is Merlot with about 37% Cabernet Franc and only 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The acidity is perfect, and the wine evolved with our evening.  We didn’t decant, but instead allowed it to open in our glasses over the course of a couple of hours.  We drank it alongside some delicious and hearty beef stew pie.

Since the vineyards have been sold, they’ll never make a wine like this again. The fruit from La Tour du Pin Figeac will be instead merged with Cheval Blanc’s Grand Vin.

What a treat it was though, this wine that was the 1998 version of Cheval Blanc’s Figeac.

And no, we did not share it with the cat.