We enjoyed an informative and gracious visit to Champagne Geoffroy in June 2014 and while there purchased this bottle to use in a toast to honour of my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary in August.
Many of grower-producer Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy’s champagnes are imported into Canada but not this one.
A fifth-generation winemaker whose 14 ha of Premier Cru vineyards are to the west in Cumieres close to Hautvillers (of Dom Perignon fame) in the Vallee de la Marne, his 120-140,000 bottles per year focus on Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with Chardonnay thrown in for good measure. Jean-Baptiste avoids allowing his wines to undergo malolactic fermentation and this adds to their complexity and longevity.
The champagne house in Ay is gravity fed, has 100m long cool caves located far below the house carved into the tuffeau and is happily overrun with his five adorable daughters who kept popping in and out with friends to check on things with their doting father.
Passionate doesn’t even begin to describe Jean-Baptiste’s verve. He was extremely busy the day we arrived hand disgorging about 40 bottles and preparing the liquor d’expedition for the batch that was being bottled on the mobile assembly line at the back entrance.
His flagship champagne, the Volupte is made with grapes harvested in 2007 (although it doesn’t actually say so on the bottle), 80% of which are Chardonnay and 10% each Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Jean-Baptiste recommended it would be ‘perfect’ with Parmesan and goat cheese. We had to compromise on the cheese and instead paired it with a nutty, creamy Gran Padano and some Iberian goat and sheep cheeses. It did not disappoint.
Pale lemon with legs and a creamy mousse, the wine has medium aromas of lemon balm, brioche and yeast. A mineral-laden, youthful wine that is dry and has medium plus refreshing acidity and medium body. The flavours are similar but round out with additional pink and lemon grapefruit, lemon creme and toast.
The finish is long and lovely, complimented by the lingering mousse.
WSET ‘Very Good’ wine; drink now and enjoy or hold for additional development.