Joseph Faiveley, Moulin-a-Vent AC, France, 2009, 13.5% abv, C$34.95

Now we’re talking turkey – Christmas turkey that is…rubbed and roasted with freshly herbed butter, just-picked sage, rosemary and thyme and served with homemade stuffing and cranberry sauce.

Made from the Gamay Noir a Jus Blanc grape and hailing from one of the best known Beaujolais Crus, this Moulin-a-Vent wine hit the Christmas spot.

About 25% of Beaujolais wine production emerges from the hilly north and if it’s from just one village (or commune) it can add the village name onto the name of the wine (this one, alas, is not). This wine is from the Moulin-a-Vent (‘Windmill’) Cru and as such can be aged for up to 10 years. Most Beaujolais Crus can go for 3, but those from Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Chenas and Julienas are able to age much longer and often acquire Pinot Noir-type characteristics as time passes.

Beaujolais wines are known for several characteristics, one being the manner in which they’re vinified – carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration. For this process, whole bunches of grapes go into sealed cement or stainless steel fermentation vessels where the bottom third of the grapes are crushed by the weight of the top ones.

As the bottom grapes convert their sugars into ethanol, CO2 is given off and it bathes the upper layers which undergo intracellular fermentation. This is unique and helps produce pear drop, kirsch and banana aromas that are common in Beaujolais wines.

This fermentation method takes place for 4 days with Beaujolais Nouveau and can last up to 10 days for Cru wines. The pommace is pressed and that wine is included in the final blend (this is also unlike other regions). If the wine is made semi-carbonically however, it will be fermented in this style for 1-2 days and then vinified in a normal manner.

An increasing amount of these Beaujolais wines are produced more as they would be in Burgundy however (normal fermentation), especially in Northern Beaujolais where this wine in particular is produced by the negociant company Joseph Faiveley.

This wine hails from a good vintage and is clear and bright, medium plus garnet and has legs. It’s clean with medium plus aromas of raspberry and pomegranate, black cherry, plum, some dusty leaf and is developed.

On the palate it’s dry with medium alcohol, medium body, medium grainy tannins and medium plus acidity. The medium intensity flavours of black cherry and raspberry, plums, licorice and dried leaf offer a medium finish.

A WSET ‘very good’ wine – well balanced alcohol and fruit with just there silky tannins and a perfect accompaniment to Christmas turkey dinner with cranberry sauce. Drinking beautifully now, but could last another year or two. Enjoy…


About winellama

I love wine...and finally decided to do something about it.
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